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Thread: Firewall & underhood insulation?

  1. #1
    Registered User Tookie's Avatar
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    Default Firewall & underhood insulation?

    I know this is not the forum for this, not sure where it goes.
    Where can I get replacement insulation for the firewall?
    Between motor / bellhousing and firewall. I also need to
    replace the insulation on the hood.
    Tookie LeBlanc
    Current DD: 2012 VW Jetta TDI

    Newest truck: (11/2011 - 3/2013, Sold!)
    2009 Toyota Tacoma, TRD sport 4X4 crewcab

    Newer truck: (2010 - 2011, sold!!)
    2004 Chevy 2500HD, LB7, Hypertech III, K&N cold air, Cooper Discoverer HTs, Rhino liner...

    Old truck: (2003 - 2010)
    1997 GMC Sierra 2500 X/C longbed, 6.5 / 4L80E 230,000+miles, original IP,
    3rd PMD, Kooler, (now behind bumper) new shocks, evaporator core, heater core,
    ball joints, batteries, crankcase depression regulator, deleted vac pump and home made TM,
    new brake cylinders & calipers, ceramic pads, new starter, batteries..........
    and a dozen other things I am sure I forgot

  2. #2
    OBD 1 Master Pruittx2's Avatar
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    Default

    the last I heard, someone on here had bought the last of the GM factory firewall insulation for a dealer in Texas, you could as your local chevy dealer to do a nation wide search for the part number. the hood blanket should be available from LMC trucks.


    1995 GMC SLT Suburban 149,000 miles
    Buddy Super chip, 4" exhaust, FTB Mod, Bosch Injectors, GU6-G80, Killer PMD Cooler FS PMD #9
    Duraterm Glows, TurboMaster, K-47 airbox, Remote Start/Alarm system, D-max fan New Mod'd clutch








  3. #3
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Just remove it. When soaked in oil esp around the oil cooler lines and exhaust it becomes a fire hazard. It has not made any difference in heat or sound on mine. I left the hood insulation though. But the 2" thick of cr@p missing from the firewall makes getting to the transmission bell housing bolts easy.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  4. #4
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide bobbiemartin's Avatar
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    I bought the factory insulation pad from the dealer. Its not the same as what was on the truck originally. Even though its was genuine GM, I don't think its as good as the original pad. If I had to do it over, I would use Dynamat Hoodliner. Its cheaper and probably easier. BTW, you will never get the pad replaced unless the engine and most everything else is out of the way.
    Bobbie Martin
    1995 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 6.5 TD 2WD- DB2 mechanical fuel injection
    GEP Optimizer 6.53 Detroit Diesel Power
    6.53L, GEP Block & Heads, .020 over, ARP studs, DB2 Inj. pump, GM8 Turbo w/TurboMaster
    K47 Airbox with K&N filter, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 2¼" Crossover
    HO Water Pump, Hayden "Truck Fan" Clutch, 21" 9 blade Duramax Fan

    No PMD, APP, optical sensor or vacuum pump!
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide

  5. #5
    Registered User Tookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bobbiemartin View Post
    BTW, you will never get the pad replaced unless the engine and most everything else is out of the way.
    Tookie LeBlanc
    Current DD: 2012 VW Jetta TDI

    Newest truck: (11/2011 - 3/2013, Sold!)
    2009 Toyota Tacoma, TRD sport 4X4 crewcab

    Newer truck: (2010 - 2011, sold!!)
    2004 Chevy 2500HD, LB7, Hypertech III, K&N cold air, Cooper Discoverer HTs, Rhino liner...

    Old truck: (2003 - 2010)
    1997 GMC Sierra 2500 X/C longbed, 6.5 / 4L80E 230,000+miles, original IP,
    3rd PMD, Kooler, (now behind bumper) new shocks, evaporator core, heater core,
    ball joints, batteries, crankcase depression regulator, deleted vac pump and home made TM,
    new brake cylinders & calipers, ceramic pads, new starter, batteries..........
    and a dozen other things I am sure I forgot

  6. #6
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    X2 on engine needing to be out to replace it. But to remove it can be done with the engine in.

    And it makes a big f'ing mess when all the plastic and insulation falls apart while getting ripped out.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  7. #7
    Recruit JMJNet's Avatar
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    My firewall insulation is all ripped in convenient places. At the beginning I was worrying, now I just live with it. I bought the kind that has Al on one face and insulation on the other side from JCWhitney but never install it.

    I guess, it needs to have the engine out.

    The hood insulator is intact but I don't think it is new, though.
    #####---------######-------#####
    1995 6.5TD GMC Suburban
    PMD in Bumper
    4" Warpspeed Exhaust
    KD LP/OPS Harness
    Bosch Duraterm GP
    Heath Turbo-Master
    Chevron's XLP Diesel Additive

  8. #8
    Registered User SmithvilleD's Avatar
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    I removed the insulation covering most of the firewall (fender to fender); it was falling apart as is prolly common w/ many of our trucks. I then covered this area with "peel-n-seal". The smaller/separate insulation just around the bellhousing area I covered in Al tape (like used to seal hvac ducting) to hold it together enough to be re-used.

    Peel-n-seal is intended as a roofing patch material & comes in a roll & is a thin asphalt layer with Al foil backing & the asphalt side has an adhesive. This product has been used by car audio enthusiasts as "poor man's dynamat".

    I can't provide any head to head sound damping comparison to dynamat/hushmat, etc.,. But can say it quite noticeably quieted my truck's interior when I put down 2 layers to the cab floor before new carpet. I put it on the firewall because it was easy w/ the engine out & wouldn't absorb oil/fuel etc. Do think it would look better if after applying the peel-n-seal, I'd sprayed the Al foil outer layer w/ a black product like Lizard Skin.

    I suspect the open, fibrous nature of the factory firewall & hood insulation is likely to be more effective at keeping engine noise out of the cab. But replacing the factory firewall insulation means work beyond just pulling the engine as I'd imagine Bobbie can attest to.
    Last edited by SmithvilleD; 04-21-2010 at 09:55 PM.
    1995 K2500, 8600 GVWR, 6.5TD, NV4500, 3.73:1, ~19:1, balanced, Fluidampr, DSG timing gears, '97 cooling upgrades, DMax fan - SD fan clutch, Kennedy TD-Max chip, 2350 psi/pop marine injectors, 4" exhaust, ceramic coated exh manifolds/turbine housing/crossover pipe, Autometer: pyrometer, boost, oil temp, oil press, fuel press, & water temp gauges, remote oil filter, B&M plate-style oil cooler w/ braided SS oil lines, 10 micron Racor pre-lift pump, Walbro FRB-5, GMTDScan Tech, Dipaco PMD -lrg heatsink frnt licence bracket in bumper

  9. #9

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    Hahaha...Try driving a CUCV. 6.2(same as 6.5) No insulation at ALL. talk wabout loud..Damn.
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