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Thread: 6.5 take out engines - military re-powers

  1. #1
    Stand Your Ground 3500GMC's Avatar
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    Default 6.5 take out engines - military re-powers

    How about listing places to buy these engines.

    Places in each state.
    Things to watch out for when bolting into a 'civilian truck'.
    Ones to avoid.

    If one could find an engine in their own state, it would save freight costs and the total cost of their project.

    Any other pointers would be appreciated.
    '93 GMC Sierra SLE K3500 RCLB 4L80E 4.10 axles, lockers, JB8 13x3.5 brakes, 4X4 SRW 1TON, 6.5TD now a fully ported big valve '82 6.2 turbocharged, mandrel straight pipe w/ warpspeed x-over, Fluidampr, tweeked DB2-2831-4911 IP, Battery relocation, H/O W/P, CDR elim custom vent, PYO wheels w/285-75 Dick Cepek FC-II's - Quasar Blue and Argent Silver two tone.

    ...and other various GM cars and trucks


  2. #2
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    The 6.2 drop in to replace a 6.5 should be listed as an option. 6.2 blocks are stronger and the engines are more common than a sought after 6.5 by $500.00. You need a different oil feed line to the turbo.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  3. #3
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    Military used 24 volt electrics. ip would have to be converted to use with 12 volts. Many have hummvee style oil pan. Would have to swap with truck style pan. 6.2 N/A used different injectors from 6.5 N/A and turbo. Military used v-belts. Have to swap water pump and plate for surp. drive and crank pulley. Accessory brackets to surp drive. If converting to electronic ip the timing cover and timing crank sprocket.
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

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    Registered User 6.2 turbo's Avatar
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    I used to think 6.2 's were stronger until I pulled the pan of one at the junk yard ,it looked like brand new inside, but the block was cracked at the mains so bad that the cracks no longer lined up. The way I see it a 6.5 or 6.2 block is like bending a wire till it brakes,the blocks will flex for certain amount of times until they crack ,I believe it could be related somewhat to mileage. There is some cheap military 6.2' s on ebay ,but as is.
    92 Chevy truck modified 6.2 diesel, Has spun bearings 97 Chevy truck solid axle and 5.9 cummins no fuel plate, 370 marine inj,valair twin disc clutch. 96 4 door Tahoe getting a 6.5 diesel swap

  5. #5
    Being fat sucks Anubis's Avatar
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    I am going to go with a new block......... unless the diesel fairy leaves a P400 under the pillow.
    I originally bought it
    to put the engine/
    trans in my Bronco

    94 2500 Silverado ECSB 4x4 (duh ....... for the longest time that said longbed)
    Vin "S"
    4L80E
    4.10 gears
    PMD heatsinked and relocated
    this is the only 6 lug 3/4 ton I have ever seen


    Save a Logger, kill a crooked politician.

  6. #6
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    Here's one in utah http://www.boyceequipment.com/
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  7. #7
    Recruit midniteplowboyy's Avatar
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    If you run across later model HMMWV engines they could be equipped with the CPS timing cover and reluctor gear(required for the 4L80), also serp/reverse rotation water pumps.

    All Optimizer's should have the CPS setup, water pumps could be either way. I think the serp drive crank pulley is the same as the trucks(just take the spacer out).

    If you want to keep the DB2 pump, just swap the top off an old 12v pump or swap the solenoids.
    1992 6.5TD K2500 4x4 5spd 3.42's reg cab, Feed Truck, fully cranked DB-2, straight piped factory 3" exhaust, boost and pyro, 3/8" feed the beast mod, 3500 rear springs, flat bed, 2000lb T&S trip hopper feeder, K/C Daylighters, 3-1/2" receiver hitch

    1993 6.5TD C3500 2x4 4L80 3.21's 4door, Play Truck, fully cranked DB-2, WH1C Holset Turbo, 24x12x4 I/C, 4" Exhaust, 0.010 thicker Head Gaskets, ARP Head Studs, Pete Jackson Gear Drive, Fluidampr, Bosch Marine Injectors, HO Water Pump, Amsoil Bypass Oil Filters and Air Filter, fuel filter housing mod with 3/8" fuel lines, Gauges(Pyrometer, Boost, Fuel Pressure, Water Temp in each head, Oil Temp, Trans Temp and Trans Pressure), BD Torque Converter, Transgo HD Shift Kit, 3.21 gears, U.S.Gear Underdrive, rear 4link Air Ride,22" Alcoa's and 305/40 Tires. BROKEN CRANK!!!, Damn Dorman pulley . Getting a P-pumped 12valve Cummins, RTO-6610 Road Ranger 10spd, 14" double disk clutch

    http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/album.php?albumid=286

    1994 6.5TD K2500 4x4 4L80 3.73's reg cab, The Stabbin Feed Wagon Max-E-Tork Heath chip, manual GP overide, Flowmaster 3" downpipe, straight piped factory 2-3/4" exhaust, posi-lock actuator, 3" body lift, flat bed, remote hydraulics, hay spear, 2500lb T&S trip hopper feeder, 33-12.50 front/14.50 rear-16.5" super swampers on 9-3/4" and 12" rims, backup camera

    2004 6.6TD K3500 4x4 Allison 3.73's 4door, Towing Truck Ranch Hand brush gaurd, Ranch Hand wrap around rear bumper, B&W turnover hitch

  8. #8
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 6.2 turbo View Post
    I used to think 6.2 's were stronger until I pulled the pan of one at the junk yard ,it looked like brand new inside, but the block was cracked at the mains so bad that the cracks no longer lined up. The way I see it a 6.5 or 6.2 block is like bending a wire till it brakes,the blocks will flex for certain amount of times until they crack ,I believe it could be related somewhat to mileage. There is some cheap military 6.2' s on ebay ,but as is.
    Recall a 6.5 is a bored out 6.2. Advantage 6.2 for thicker cyl walls.
    The pistons are thicker in a 6.2. Advantage 6.2.
    Most 6.2's were non turbo --> less power = less stress. Advantage 6.2.
    6.2's couldn't get out of their own way resulting is full power high RPM running with black smoke. Advantage 6.5 turbo.
    6.2's cost less...

    As they are the same block with diffrent bores thay share a lot of common parts and problems.

    Edit:
    Compression ratio is higher on the 6.2. So a 6.5 setup put on a 6.2 has to run less max boost for the turbo master type users.
    Last edited by WarWagon; 03-28-2010 at 07:20 PM.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  9. #9
    Registered User 6.2 turbo's Avatar
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    I was thinking of the main webs,are the pistons definetly thicker ? I guess I could continue my search for one that is crack free.
    92 Chevy truck modified 6.2 diesel, Has spun bearings 97 Chevy truck solid axle and 5.9 cummins no fuel plate, 370 marine inj,valair twin disc clutch. 96 4 door Tahoe getting a 6.5 diesel swap

  10. #10
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    Upon buying and checking out this 6.2 I now have, I have concluded- there is more MEAT in the block of a 6.2, PERIOD. With the extra bore dia. in the 6.5, flexing/cracking is the norm. When you stop and think why did GM go to 10mm outer main bolts in the 6.5, the pieces of the puzzle start aligning. Pistons in the 6.2 ARE thicker. I think GM thinned out the 6.5 pistons to compensate for the bigger dia. and to maintain 'bob weight' so the engine would not shake itself apart.

    Of course this is comparing OEM to OEM.
    '93 GMC Sierra SLE K3500 RCLB 4L80E 4.10 axles, lockers, JB8 13x3.5 brakes, 4X4 SRW 1TON, 6.5TD now a fully ported big valve '82 6.2 turbocharged, mandrel straight pipe w/ warpspeed x-over, Fluidampr, tweeked DB2-2831-4911 IP, Battery relocation, H/O W/P, CDR elim custom vent, PYO wheels w/285-75 Dick Cepek FC-II's - Quasar Blue and Argent Silver two tone.

    ...and other various GM cars and trucks


  11. #11
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    My 1988 6.2L ate the glow plugs when they came on at 65 MPH. Ate = blown in half. Replaced the defective sensor and the glow plugs. 50K later when I overheated and cracked a head the glow plug parts were still impacted in the piston tops when I removed the head.

    Something about thick pistons…
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  12. #12
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Stripped my 6.2 surplus engine down to the short block. You could eat off the valve covers. Looks like the engine was rebuilt and left as a spare. It was a 12v engine. I do not have to retime a IP. Just turned it up.

    Used 6.5 manifolds on it and changed the head gaskets w/ ARP studs. I have to adjust the TPS I transferred over to the 6.2 IP. Swapped injectors to the short body units.

    The H. balancer was shot on the 6.2.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

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