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Thread: replaced steering box and the pump growls when turning or braking

  1. #1
    Registered User GJF's Avatar
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    Default replaced steering box and the pump growls when turning or braking

    Since the brakes gets it's power assist from the power steering pump how do you bleed the system. Iv'e turn the wheel lock to lock many times and the growling still there. Is there a specific procedure for these?
    1999 Chevrolet 3500 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, B&M deep trans pan, BD Super "B" Turbo, 3 1/2" to 4" down pipe, 4" exhaust, ATS Muffler, Heath FSD, #9 resistor, Heath Custom ECU, Peninsula, Intake, Duramax ATA IC severely modified to fit, Heath cooling upgrade, Bosch glows, Bosch HO injectors, Autometer Pyro, trans temp and boost gauges, Fluidampner, FBSS Air Suspension with custom 3-link, Gooseneck flip receiver in bed, 22" Alcoa wheels w/ 285/45/22's, Rear disc brake conversion

  2. #2
    I welcome everyone...not just Penguins! DEERE3594's Avatar
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    air in the lines? try driving it with out the cap on to let it purge the air out
    -Justin
    2004 Monte Carlo 3400 v6
    2002 8.1/Allison K3500 standard cab dually
    2002 6.0/4L80 2500HD Ext cab long bed
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  3. #3
    Oompa Loompa docdray's Avatar
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    yes, initial fill, start engine let run a minute then shut off. check level then start and turn from stop to stop. if fluid is FOAMY, let settle, check level and repeat. if its foamy you may be sucking foam into the lines. let truck sit for 1 hour then check.

    next, as you know these pumps have a little noise to them, is it a hiss maybe like the accumulator not holding pressure(how is steering and braking???)

    could there be debris in system causing high back pressure?

    accumulator test: start engine, turn wheel side to side. turn off engine, wait one hour for full test or 2 minutes for quick. there should be two assist brake applications.

    need more test info to go further-is steering jerky, hard, soft, surging, poor return, hard brakes, growl at all rpm's, hissing, whatever info you have.
    94 c3500, 6.5td, 4l80e rebuilt, relocate pmd, heath chip, lp and x-over pipe, 97 cooling upgrade, afe cold air intake, marine injectors, bypass ops, guages-tranny temp,egt,boost,fuel press-aux fuel tank, 410 changed to 373 gears, 4" sraight exhaust w/new down pipe, modified fuel cap, high idle switch, second tranny cooler, battery mod, gm-8 w/homemade t/m

    2006 1500 suburban 4wd, 5.3l stock.

    "You have a keen sense of the inherently obvious"

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  4. #4
    Registered User GJF's Avatar
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    Thanks guys I let it idle a bit then moved the truck to degrease the engine bay. By the time I was done with that it was back to normal.
    1999 Chevrolet 3500 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, B&M deep trans pan, BD Super "B" Turbo, 3 1/2" to 4" down pipe, 4" exhaust, ATS Muffler, Heath FSD, #9 resistor, Heath Custom ECU, Peninsula, Intake, Duramax ATA IC severely modified to fit, Heath cooling upgrade, Bosch glows, Bosch HO injectors, Autometer Pyro, trans temp and boost gauges, Fluidampner, FBSS Air Suspension with custom 3-link, Gooseneck flip receiver in bed, 22" Alcoa wheels w/ 285/45/22's, Rear disc brake conversion

  5. #5
    Oompa Loompa docdray's Avatar
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    patience, a watched power steering pump never clears
    94 c3500, 6.5td, 4l80e rebuilt, relocate pmd, heath chip, lp and x-over pipe, 97 cooling upgrade, afe cold air intake, marine injectors, bypass ops, guages-tranny temp,egt,boost,fuel press-aux fuel tank, 410 changed to 373 gears, 4" sraight exhaust w/new down pipe, modified fuel cap, high idle switch, second tranny cooler, battery mod, gm-8 w/homemade t/m

    2006 1500 suburban 4wd, 5.3l stock.

    "You have a keen sense of the inherently obvious"

    Bubba Army-FTE

  6. #6
    Registered User Dave Barbieri's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by docdray View Post
    patience, a watched power steering pump never clears
    ):h ):h Ah geez, my humor fix for the new year!

    Ya know, I was told years ago by a Dana rep that the best way to bleed a power steering system was to start the engine, let it idle for a few seconds and then turn it off. Do this several times, THEN do the lock-to-lock thing until the wheel turns smoothly all the way thru. Check the fluid level, top off as needed and let the vehicle sit for 'awhile'. He claimed that it was the fluid surge at start-up that purged the majority of the air. Not sure if this was folklore handed down form tech to tech or if there was a true engineering reason for the procedure. I just know that it's worked for me for a long time.
    1994 C3500 Extended cab C3500 dually,
    4L80E, w/TCC mod
    PTO fast idle mod
    Upper intake mod,
    DIY boost controller,
    remote PMD w/DIY extension harness,
    WarpSpeed crossover, 3" dp and exhaust system
    Heath GL4 chip
    Leroy's engine oil cooler upgrade
    VDO boost & EGT gauges

    SOLD

  7. #7
    Oompa Loompa docdray's Avatar
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    I agree, 95%
    was that pump only replacement?, I can understand that, but if you replaced a line or the gearbox, a little extra flow would help clear all air out, plus anything in the accumulator(and test accumulator).

    ----actually, turning from stop to stop and brake actuation is a good way to verify any steering issues beyond fluid level.
    94 c3500, 6.5td, 4l80e rebuilt, relocate pmd, heath chip, lp and x-over pipe, 97 cooling upgrade, afe cold air intake, marine injectors, bypass ops, guages-tranny temp,egt,boost,fuel press-aux fuel tank, 410 changed to 373 gears, 4" sraight exhaust w/new down pipe, modified fuel cap, high idle switch, second tranny cooler, battery mod, gm-8 w/homemade t/m

    2006 1500 suburban 4wd, 5.3l stock.

    "You have a keen sense of the inherently obvious"

    Bubba Army-FTE

  8. #8
    Registered User GJF's Avatar
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    The pump was good but the steering box had too much slope and I just put 22's on the truck and needed to have it aligned tommorow. So I end up flushing the old fluid out and replenished with new. This kinda freaked me out as when I started it I could not budge the steering wheel. Which prompt me to go to the PC to ask you guys the question. I pulled it outside by backing out which required no turning of the wheel. After it idled a bit it did start to be able to turn finally. I let it idle a little longer then shut it off to pressure clean. After I fired her up again it was literally growl free. So I have to agree with Dave. I did read on another post from a Corvette site that sells a hydro boost setup to replace the booster. The supplier claimed it could take up to 500 miles to bleed the system completely. But also on those systems the power steering lines point down where on our trucks they point up at the master cylinder. The guy claimed after a 100 mile weekend cruise it was fine.
    1999 Chevrolet 3500 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, B&M deep trans pan, BD Super "B" Turbo, 3 1/2" to 4" down pipe, 4" exhaust, ATS Muffler, Heath FSD, #9 resistor, Heath Custom ECU, Peninsula, Intake, Duramax ATA IC severely modified to fit, Heath cooling upgrade, Bosch glows, Bosch HO injectors, Autometer Pyro, trans temp and boost gauges, Fluidampner, FBSS Air Suspension with custom 3-link, Gooseneck flip receiver in bed, 22" Alcoa wheels w/ 285/45/22's, Rear disc brake conversion

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