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Thread: Brake proportioning valve...

  1. #1
    Registered User steelydan's Avatar
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    Default Brake proportioning valve...

    1999 Suburban k2500. Does it have a load sensing proportioning valve? I have 1300lbs or so of ironer parts in the back and the brakes work much better. I know on my toyota I used to bend the linkage to give the back brakes a little more grab. I don't remember seeing a load sensing valve on these trucks.
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  2. #2
    6.5 nut job/addict
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    I don't think gm used those since the 80's. ABS controls how much brakes the rear gets.
    Barry



    I am not on the Heath Bandwagon

  3. #3
    Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt Missy Good Wench's Avatar
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    These trucks use a combination valve to control rear brakes and to set the light on the dash should pressure be lost.

    The springing or valving on some of these has issues and they stop putting enough pressure to the rear brakes.

    My 94 has the same issue but its still OK.

    If its a problem, change the Combination valve and bleed the system out.

    MGW
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    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    Probably stopping better because the rear's are actually working with weight. Your pedal will travel more as the fronts alone can't stop it before the rear's kick in.

    I have seen over-sized wheel cylinders, but have never heard from anyone who tried them.

    I saw those oversized wheel cylinders when looking at the rear disc conversion companies websites. Turbine Doc's company specifically. Give em a shot, they weren't much cake.

    Are they well adjusted? Either jack it up and adjust them, or go into a parking lot and roll backwards fairly quick, and snap the brake pedal hard about 10 times and see if its better pedal.

    Never liked drums..... audo adjust? yeah right.
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
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  5. #5
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    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/att...3&d=1206332902
    I have not tried this, but there are many posts about brake adjustment and uneven wear here and on the other site.

    My pads on the front wear unevenly and used to pull to the right really bad before I rebuilt the whole system. I believe the key is to keep the rear brakes adjust properly.
    Matt



    '05 1500 Suburban Z71 51000 miles Wifey's ride

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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Bachand View Post
    I have seen over-sized wheel cylinders, but have never heard from anyone who tried them.
    You never asked me, Matt.
    96 1500 4x4 suburban F-series engine
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybb3 View Post
    You never asked me, Matt.
    So do larger cylinders help?
    Matt



    '05 1500 Suburban Z71 51000 miles Wifey's ride

  8. #8
    livin' in the sticks ghitch75's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmcna View Post
    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/att...3&d=1206332902
    I have not tried this, but there are many posts about brake adjustment and uneven wear here and on the other site.

    My pads on the front wear unevenly and used to pull to the right really bad before I rebuilt the whole system. I believe the key is to keep the rear brakes adjust properly.

    great info!!!!!......burb goin' to get a brake redo.....i have EBC vented rotors and EBC ULTIMAX pads...they will stay just new pads....all the rest will go....then the thing might stop!!!!
    94 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.5 turbo auto... 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,DP rebuilt IP,,new OPS,Heath,Home made TM,Heath PMD cooler kit(to be installed)Heath GL4, Heath optical harness...
    93 4x4 k3500 cab & chassis 6.5 turbo 5 speed flat bed dump 3" downpipe,4" straight pipe,new Bosch injectors, Home made TM, Performance Induction, Boost Gauge


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  9. #9
    Oompa Loompa docdray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Missy Good Wench View Post
    These trucks use a combination valve to control rear brakes and to set the light on the dash should pressure be lost.

    The springing or valving on some of these has issues and they stop putting enough pressure to the rear brakes.

    My 94 has the same issue but its still OK.

    If its a problem, change the Combination valve and bleed the system out.

    MGW
    my 94 is finally beyond not repairing. have continued to readjust rears over last year, but now the fronts start to cook with load. using parking brake in emergencies, guess I gotta do something this weekend.
    94 c3500, 6.5td, 4l80e rebuilt, relocate pmd, heath chip, lp and x-over pipe, 97 cooling upgrade, afe cold air intake, marine injectors, bypass ops, guages-tranny temp,egt,boost,fuel press-aux fuel tank, 410 changed to 373 gears, 4" sraight exhaust w/new down pipe, modified fuel cap, high idle switch, second tranny cooler, battery mod, gm-8 w/homemade t/m

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  10. #10
    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybb3 View Post
    You never asked me, Matt.
    Good info to add to this thread!

    Any more breaking power? Any pedal change? Can you make the rears lockup easier? (easiest to tell the hard way in the snow!)
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
    9' Utility Body w/ Dual Tanks, 9' Fisher Plow / Glowshift Fuel Gauge On Dash
    50 Gallon Bed Mounted Transfer Tank / KYB Monomax Frt / AC_Delco Gas Rear Shocks
    V-Pump Delete / 99." Serp / 2 Walbro FRB-5 / Racor 490r30 Prefilter/Water Separator (10 Micron)
    Strobes all the way around / IssPro Boost/Pyro Guages on A-Pillar / 0-15psi Fuel Pressure on Pod next to A-Pillar
    Heath Turbo Master / 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust / New Bosch Injectors @ 130k
    Twin 195 Robert Shaw T-Stats
    PMD Isolator / 2-way High Idle Switch
    AMSOIL NANO Air filter / Mobil-1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Formula Synthetic / Synthetic Diff (Front and Rear)
    235/85 16's....
    4l80e Rebuilt at 106k (blew reverse out, my fault)
    -1.94 TDCO / Half Assed FTB (Still need to bore out IP fitting) / Switchable TWIN walbro's. (10PSI @ IP)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Bachand View Post
    Good info to add to this thread!

    Any more breaking power? Any pedal change? Can you make the rears lockup easier? (easiest to tell the hard way in the snow!)

    Absolutely added more power to the rears. iirc I only went 1/16 of an inch bigger. Stock is 1". Need to keep the rears adjusted as you get more pedal travel if they aren't kept well adjusted. I'll look tonight to make sure of the size. I bought them from EBC brakes. When the drums are not servicable or I get more money, I'm going to rear disc. TSM is the kit I'm looking at.
    96 1500 4x4 suburban F-series engine
    3 to 4 inch exhaust-stainless crossover
    Oilguard bypass oil filter with additional permacool dual remote oil filters adapted to take two 1 1/2 quart Mobil 1 m1-403 filters---10.5 quart capacity now
    B&M Deep Tranny Pan
    Remote fuel filter with 1R-0749 CAT 2 micron filter or Donaldson 551000 and 200 watt electric pad heater
    Walbro FRB-5 Lift Pump
    Dipaco Remote FSD #9 resistor behind bumper
    1999 High capacity (opt K47) Air box
    3.42 gearing with 235/85-16 michelins
    A-Team Turbo, Vacuum Pump Deleted 99.5" belt
    -1.83 TDCO set by Matt Bachand

  12. #12
    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by guybb3 View Post
    Absolutely added more power to the rears. iirc I only went 1/16 of an inch bigger. Stock is 1". Need to keep the rears adjusted as you get more pedal travel if they aren't kept well adjusted. I'll look tonight to make sure of the size. I bought them from EBC brakes. When the drums are not servicable or I get more money, I'm going to rear disc. TSM is the kit I'm looking at.
    Rear disc is a win/win. Not only way better stopping power, but less weight (especially on duallies!) and will actually feel more power as well as braking.

    Subtract the cost of the new drums/shoes to the conversion price, and its the way to go.

    I'm renovating my brakes next year I think. My rotors wear pattern is getting smaller and smaller, although they could probably be turned, I'd rather replace with some high performance vented rotor or something.

    You using those?

    With a DRW changing rotors is a nasty job with those extension hubs. I may time it with my P.S. Hub if it holds out till next year, as it needs to come apart anyhow.

    FWIW I have had absolutely excellent luck with Cermanic pads.

    I think I'll do them oversized wheel cylinders also.
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
    9' Utility Body w/ Dual Tanks, 9' Fisher Plow / Glowshift Fuel Gauge On Dash
    50 Gallon Bed Mounted Transfer Tank / KYB Monomax Frt / AC_Delco Gas Rear Shocks
    V-Pump Delete / 99." Serp / 2 Walbro FRB-5 / Racor 490r30 Prefilter/Water Separator (10 Micron)
    Strobes all the way around / IssPro Boost/Pyro Guages on A-Pillar / 0-15psi Fuel Pressure on Pod next to A-Pillar
    Heath Turbo Master / 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust / New Bosch Injectors @ 130k
    Twin 195 Robert Shaw T-Stats
    PMD Isolator / 2-way High Idle Switch
    AMSOIL NANO Air filter / Mobil-1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Formula Synthetic / Synthetic Diff (Front and Rear)
    235/85 16's....
    4l80e Rebuilt at 106k (blew reverse out, my fault)
    -1.94 TDCO / Half Assed FTB (Still need to bore out IP fitting) / Switchable TWIN walbro's. (10PSI @ IP)

  13. #13
    FRANKENBURBAN THEFERMANATOR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmcna View Post
    http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/att...3&d=1206332902
    I have not tried this, but there are many posts about brake adjustment and uneven wear here and on the other site.

    My pads on the front wear unevenly and used to pull to the right really bad before I rebuilt the whole system. I believe the key is to keep the rear brakes adjust properly.
    I just put this valve in FRANKENBURBAN yesterday as the added weight in the front end was causing a bad nose dive on braking. Also when the nose went down it would lift the rear up and the rear tires would begin to hop around and it would go either direction it wanted to. The valve made a definate improvement in braking that is noticeable.
    WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T HAVE IT ALL, JUST BUILD IT

    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.


  14. #14
    livin' in the sticks ghitch75's Avatar
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    draggin' up an old ghost......just gettin' around to doin' my brakes....where in the world is the Brake proportioning valve?.....i can't find it?...on my burb btw...
    94 Suburban 2500 4x4 6.5 turbo auto... 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust,DP rebuilt IP,,new OPS,Heath,Home made TM,Heath PMD cooler kit(to be installed)Heath GL4, Heath optical harness...
    93 4x4 k3500 cab & chassis 6.5 turbo 5 speed flat bed dump 3" downpipe,4" straight pipe,new Bosch injectors, Home made TM, Performance Induction, Boost Gauge


    DTR.com Dually Club #36

    DTR Brotherhood of Handshakers Club #17

  15. #15
    FRANKENBURBAN THEFERMANATOR's Avatar
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    It mounts into the end of the ABS module.
    WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T HAVE IT ALL, JUST BUILD IT

    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.


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