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Thread: Rod Knock?

  1. #1
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    Default Rod Knock?

    Guys, first post on this site and wanted some more opinions on my knock

    I'm not exactly sure what the cause of the sound coming from my engine is but I'm sure its not good.

    The truck was just normal and then the next day started to make this loud tick sound that really gets loud with engine rpm increase. Oil pressure is albout half scale on the gauge and steady warm.

    I've gotten in around the engine with a broom stick but I couldn't isolate where its coming from, I'm listened to the vac pump and its pretty quiet. Top pans have some ping but not quite like I'm hearing.

    I've checked the balancer/pulley, couldn't move the balancer with both hands and the pulley moved a little when I wiggled it but the rubber looks pretty good but has a rough surface.

    I had the belt off and ran the truck, no difference.

    New injectors last year and no smoke black or white.

    Hopefully its nothing serious. Thanks in advance.

    Vid, hopefully will work, still not sure how to do links



    *w*w.youtube.c*m/watch?v=6Fcxnp0LC1U
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  2. #2
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    Sorry bout the checklist, gotta get used to the site.

    0. Describe in detail the problem you are having. Please be as descriptive as possible.
    Strange tick/knock in engine. Changes frequency with engine rpm.
    1. Does the engine crank, or 'turn over'? Yes
    1a. Does the engine start and run? Yes
    1a1. If the engine does not start - Crack injector line: do you have fuel? Yes
    1b. Do you have a Wait To Start Light & the amount of time (seconds) lit. Yes - Normal
    1c. Ambient Condition (temperature outside indicate F or C) 15 C °
    1d. Engine Cranking speed (if you have an accurate tachometer). Normal
    1e. Are you experiencing stalling? No
    1f. If Stalling, describe (upon startup only, down the road, hit a bump etc) N/A1g. If Stalling, do you notice loss of dash or instruments? N/A
    -note if experiencing stalling,you must indicate PMD location in #24.
    1h. Check turbo inlet and air filter for obstructions. Cone filters have lost disk and stopped air to turbo. None
    1i. In a no-hot start, pour a bottle of room-temp water on the injection pump. Does it start now? N/A
    1.1 Lift pump test - describe results - Fuel flow with no stall
    2. Service Engine Light while running?- On
    2a. Service Engine light does glow during start/cranking/bulb check: Yes
    3. Model year - 1996
    3a. Odometer reading (indicate if in miles or km) 280 000km
    3b. Miles on major engine components if been replaced (example Injection pump) - Turbo, crossover, CDR, injectors - Last Summer New.
    3c. Indicate the model number on the Injection pump (starts DS4 or DB2......) - DS4
    4. Have you scanned for engine codes? (varies by pre/post 96) - Yes
    5. List exact results on engine codes: P0712 and P0406 Always been there
    6. Air Filter condition (visual check) - Good condition
    7. Fuel filter condition (freshly changed/condition unknown/mileage since changed) - 6 mon old
    8. Condition of Battery terminal connections (removed, cleaned and tightened) - All Complete
    8a. Known condition and age of the batteries. - <1Yr Good condition
    8b. Are batteries of differing age or are they a matched set? - Same age and matched8c. Condition of Major Grounds. (same drill as batt - removed, cleaned, retightened) - All Done
    9. Upon cold start, does the radiator hose get hard quickly? - No
    10. Upon cold start, do you have excessive white smoke? - No11. Do you have excessive cranking time before the engine starts? - No
    12. Have you used the block heater, and does this effect engine starting?(only try for starting problems) - N/A
    13. During hard acceleration, do you have excessive black smoke? - No
    14. Do you have any unusual exhaust smoke issues? - No - A little white on startup
    15. Turbo check out - pass
    16. Do you have an EGR on the engine? (An F or an S engine code 8th VIN digit) - S
    17. Indicate if you know if it’s a 1500, 2500, 2500HD, 3500, 3500HD. - 1500
    18. Indicate fuel that you are using: Bio-diesel, #2 Diesel, #1Diesel, SVO/WVO, other - #2
    18a. If running a VO (Veggie Oil fuel) setup, indicate details of your conversion (homemade, or packaged system)
    19. Are you using any fuel additives? If so, please list. - TC-w3
    20. Please indicate geographic region you are in: (example: Texas or Canada) - Canada
    21. Do you have any service history available that might pertain to the problem you are having? - No - New oil a month ago
    22. Please indicate any modifications to the vehicle that might help us diagnose better. - EGR delete recent
    23. Upon unscrewing the fuel cap, do you have a large vacuum formed in the tank? - No
    24. Location of PMD/FSD? On the pump/remoted over intake/remoted out of engine bay (please specify placement specifically) - Skid Plate
    24a. If remote mounted, describe wiring harness (homemade or purchased from a vendor?) - Homemade
    24b. Indicate the location and condition of the FSD/IP grounding wire. - on IP
    25. Are ALL glow plugs in proper working order as per this thread? - yes
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  3. #3
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    IIRC a rod knock will get quieter as you rev engine and get really loud when you back off. A main will stay pretty consistent. Having said that I have had injectors that sounded like a bearing going out.
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, kennedy opsu relay kit,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

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  4. #4
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    My knock is consistant, increases with rpm. Did the vid load? I can't see it.
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  5. #5
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    I did do some listening again and it appears that the pulse in the injector lines is in time with the knock.
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  6. #6

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    Could it be valve train related?

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  7. #7
    Registered User mitchedo's Avatar
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    Default

    I vote rod knock, or bad lifter. It's not the chuff-chuff sound of a stuck valve. It's not the typical tic tic sound of a bad lifter (though the sound quality of Youtube isn't that great); What I hear is the definite heavy metallic sound of a rod knock. The rod knocks I've heard are pretty consistent with rpm changes, though sometimes putting a load on will change the sound up a bit. I had a far more subtle noise than that in my engine before the rebuild. It is gone now.

    Of course, there is the ever-present possibility of a wasted vacuum pump or crank pulley or harmonic balancer, or even a busted flex plate, but the sound is definitely metal on metal to my ears through my Klipsch ProMedia speakers.

    I have never heard an injector knock, but I have heard rod knocks and valve train noise, so my opinion is worth exactly what you paid for it.
    Last edited by mitchedo; 06-03-2009 at 07:26 AM.
    1999 GMC K3500 Crew longbed, 136,000 miles
    6.5(F), replaced under warranty in 2003 at 87,000 mi with new GM (AMG) long block
    See pix of how the engine insides look at 49,000 miles here:members.csolutions.net/dougm/TruckEngineTeardown/ (new ISP, will update addy some day)
    4L80E (original, as far as I can tell)
    Mostly stock

    May 2009 update
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    new Bosh injectors and 60G glows
    Heath composite spin-on fan and super duper clutch
    gauges still in the closet.

  8. #8
    Wild Blonde from Cloud Mt Missy Good Wench's Avatar
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    The noise I am hearing sounds like Crank speed rather than cam speed.

    Gert a helper and try loosening each injector line one at a time and see if you can isolate it.

    This does not sound like a rod or any bearing for that matter.
    Bottom end issues are usually very hard sounding.

    Very well may be an injector taking a leave.

    How many miles on the engine??

    Possibly a wrist pin bushing that going or gone.

    These engines have a habit of wearing out wrist pin bushings.

    Keep the faith Bro.

    MGW
    Last edited by Missy Good Wench; 06-03-2009 at 09:51 AM. Reason: addition
    1995 GMC 3500 4x4 Crewcab DaHooooley
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  9. #9
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    Unhappy

    280 000km on engine

    I have checked the pulley and balancer, tried to wiggle them with both hands. Couldn't get any movement of the balancer a little from the pulley. Ran it with the belt of still there so I'm thinking its not related to those componets.

    I hope its not bottom end related

    I do know that when I first start the truck cold there is no noise, then after a few minutes it starts and it start very quickly. Like flipping a switch.

    I took it for a short ride the other day, from a cold start I left the driveway and there was nothing but by the time I got 50ft from my drive, bam started to knock.

    How can I identify a bad wrist pin without having the engine apart?

    Thanks for the help guys, hoping for the best.

    Tony
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  10. #10
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    Can I do a wrist pin with the engine still in the truck?
    1996 GMC Sierra K1500 Ext Cab SLE 4x4 6.5L TD L56(S) - Z82 Tow PkG - Z71 Offroad PkG - HD Chassis - 4L80E Auto Trans - 3.73 Diff 9.5" RG 14 Bolt - 230,000 kms - (New Items) - 2" Crossover - CDR - Bosch Inj - 60G Glows - DIY FSD (Skid Plate) - Boost Guage - EGR Offroad Delete Plate - Fenders - Cab Corners - Now Painted

    To Come: DIY TurboMaster - Straight Pipe/Stack (Undecided)

  11. #11
    DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR Slim Shady's Avatar
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    Check the easy stuff first, I am betting injector stuck open or leaking. Been there and done that, crack each injector until you find the one that is causing the noise.

    Injectors sound just like a rod knock and vary with engine speed they get louder as the speed increases.
    1995 Chevy 2500,4x4, 5 spd, 6.2 .040 over, 18:1 ceramic coated pistons, Ported 6.5 turbo heads,6.5 high pop injectors, A-Team Turbo non waste gate, custom intercooler (removed), gm dual thermo, 130 gph water pump, 3 to 3.5 turbo down pipe to 4 inch Jardine exhaust., custom frame mount FSD cooler. Optical bump (removed), TDC Offset -1.94, Real Time Emulation tuning, thanks to members TheFermanator and Rainstate

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  12. #12
    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slim Shady View Post
    Check the easy stuff first, I am betting injector stuck open or leaking. Been there and done that, crack each injector until you find the one that is causing the noise.

    Injectors sound just like a rod knock and vary with engine speed they get louder as the speed increases.
    Each circumstance varies, but wouldn't an injector open enough to cause a knock (predetonation) also show white smoke out the pipe?

    My injector knock was only under acceleration, and the white smoke what clear as day. It wasn't 100% tied to engine speed always for sure.
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
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    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    Default

    Cracking the injector lines may also help indicate which cylinder you are having trouble with, even if its not an injector issue.

    If you notice big change from cracking injector, swap it with another injector and see if it follows.

    The sound may go away when that cylinder looses the fuel and starts missing. Even if its not the injector, you can verify bank/cylinder before ripping into it, hopefully.

    Someone with a proper scanner can even shut down cylinders without busting out a wrench if you know anyone.
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
    9' Utility Body w/ Dual Tanks, 9' Fisher Plow / Glowshift Fuel Gauge On Dash
    50 Gallon Bed Mounted Transfer Tank / KYB Monomax Frt / AC_Delco Gas Rear Shocks
    V-Pump Delete / 99." Serp / 2 Walbro FRB-5 / Racor 490r30 Prefilter/Water Separator (10 Micron)
    Strobes all the way around / IssPro Boost/Pyro Guages on A-Pillar / 0-15psi Fuel Pressure on Pod next to A-Pillar
    Heath Turbo Master / 4" Diamond Eye Exhaust / New Bosch Injectors @ 130k
    Twin 195 Robert Shaw T-Stats
    PMD Isolator / 2-way High Idle Switch
    AMSOIL NANO Air filter / Mobil-1 5w-40 Turbo Diesel Formula Synthetic / Synthetic Diff (Front and Rear)
    235/85 16's....
    4l80e Rebuilt at 106k (blew reverse out, my fault)
    -1.94 TDCO / Half Assed FTB (Still need to bore out IP fitting) / Switchable TWIN walbro's. (10PSI @ IP)

  14. #14
    DEATH BEFORE DISHONOR Slim Shady's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Bachand View Post
    Each circumstance varies, but wouldn't an injector open enough to cause a knock (predetonation) also show white smoke out the pipe?

    My injector knock was only under acceleration, and the white smoke what clear as day. It wasn't 100% tied to engine speed always for sure.

    Brand new injectors in my new rebuild a few years back and ran fine then started to knock loud knock to. Sounded like a rod and finally cracked injectors and the knock went away when I hit the right injector. WHEW

    Actualy there never was any smoke at all burned clean
    1995 Chevy 2500,4x4, 5 spd, 6.2 .040 over, 18:1 ceramic coated pistons, Ported 6.5 turbo heads,6.5 high pop injectors, A-Team Turbo non waste gate, custom intercooler (removed), gm dual thermo, 130 gph water pump, 3 to 3.5 turbo down pipe to 4 inch Jardine exhaust., custom frame mount FSD cooler. Optical bump (removed), TDC Offset -1.94, Real Time Emulation tuning, thanks to members TheFermanator and Rainstate

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  15. #15
    Recruit 96TD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slim Shady View Post
    Brand new injectors in my new rebuild a few years back and ran fine then started to knock loud knock to. Sounded like a rod and finally cracked injectors and the knock went away when I hit the right injector. WHEW

    Actualy there never was any smoke at all burned clean
    I have the same problem as GMC, and I'm trying to look at it this weekend. How much do you have to open the injector line to find out if this is the problem? I cracked a few just a little, just until I got a small amount of fuel out of it. Do you have to open the line alot?
    Brian

    96 GMC Sierra EC 2WD DRW
    "F" Mostly stock.........for now.
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