The Truck Stop - GM 6.5 Diesel Engines

5spd to 6spd

saturntech95 — Fri, 10 Sep 2010 04:57:45 GMT

Ok so I am thinking of getting.... more like building a new truck. I really want a 6spd stick in it, now here is my thought. GM used the NV4500 for a 5spd in our trucks, Dodge also used this trans. Then dodge went to the NV5600 6spd in the 24 valves. I know 12 valve guys swap the NV4500 for the NV5600 with almost no modification so my question is what are the chances this would be possible for our trucks? Like just swap a Dodge NV5600 right in?

OK since I really want to get my ideas on paper for the truck here is the basics. 96-2K crew cab, 6ft bed, made into a dually, motor built similar to mine with a ATT and a few more go fast goodies, possibly dana 60 front then the whole 6spd idea. What you guys think? The hopes are to have it all said and done by next july cause I am planning a trip to tow the other two toys on a 35' car trailer to NC in august. This is all funds pending tho and I hate to sell the suburban to get the money I would rather sell it once the other truck is done.

Saw local ad for 6.5L engines, price is best offer, what would be a good offer?

GM Guy — Fri, 10 Sep 2010 01:45:50 GMT

I have a 6.2 diesel that run good. And one that might run but unsure so it will be sold as rebuider's. I also have 2-1994 6.5 turbo diesels for sale that run but are weak. 1-1995 6.5 turbo diesel that spun a bearing. The two 6.5 diesels that run and 6.2 that run are still in the trucks. MAKE OFFER

is how the ad reads.

I was wondering what you guys with experience in this art would offer this guy? right now, I am thinking of trying to get the 95 engine with the spun bearing for the heads. as far as the ones in the trucks, I may buy them complete if he so chooses to sell them complete (who knows, one may be a 2wd 5 speed! :O :D )

I was thinking 50-100 bucks, depending on amount of useful things.. (f-code intake, good exhaust manifolds, turbo, etc) frankly because i think that 50 and under would be insultive, and over 100 would be too high of a gamble on heads that may be bad.

am I thinking along the right lines, or would you seasoned experts persue it in another fashion?

any input greatly appreciated, thanks!

Replacing thermostats, Sealant, lube or nothing?

jrsavoie — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 22:12:57 GMT

Replacing thermostats, Sealant, lube or nothing?

I am in the process of replacing the thermostats in the 1998 Suburban.

I can't get the parts as clean as I would like without investing a lot more time or taking it apart further.

There was some oxidation present.

What should I use to insure I do not have a leak when I'm done?

I have synthetic grease, food grade food service grease, black silicone, Permatex gasket maker or nothing at all.

How clean does it have to be to not worry about leaks?

It did not appear to be leaking before.

Got the burb, Got issues with it.

Acesneights1 — Thu, 09 Sep 2010 16:47:36 GMT

Ok. Got the 98 K2500 Burb. Charged the batts and it did start but was stalling and barely running. No codes. Plugged in a tested working PMD( I tested it on my dually) and it was prring like a kitten it seemed. But if I revv it it kinda falls off like a dead spot however it will hold roughly 2000 rpm and come back down. The tach is not working and the alt is not charging. it has a much bigger alt than stock. It has a 4ga cable going from the back of the alt directly to the batt. Now if the alt is not working hopefully due to the alt would that cause erratic throttle ? Otherwise the only things that come to mind are either the IP is shot anyway or the used PMD I have is no good. I onl;y plugged it into the dually and started it and revved it a few times and it seemed ok . I suposed when I bring the truck home tommorow I can swap the one from the dually but with tat alt and tach not working could that be causing engine problems ? The wiring ion this thing is a nightmare of spaghetti due to it being a fire truck and they butchered everything taking it out. Otherwise engine seems to be in good health. At one point idling I thought I heard some fuel knocking but it was cold and had not been run in awhile. Second time I started it and let it run it didn't do it. LP appears to be working. doesn't stall with t open.

Let's talk turbo... GM-x with homemade TM vs ATT setup

knkreb — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 22:21:23 GMT

So, finished fabricating the homemade turbo master on the 'burb. Thanks to all who created a thread for the DIY guys to home grow their own. Mine is kind of a hybrid between ideas... will post on that later....

So, got all the parts installed, and went to adjust. With boost gauge installed (through the driver's window for test purposes) I closed in on 11 or 12 psi, and then the SES light came on... okay... so backed it down a bit. Reset code... drew it down to about 9 psi... sustained about 9-10 psi, then de-fueled no SES light. I'm assuming it was IAT was way too high (90�F here)...

soooo... I backed it down to 8 psi. I can gun it all day long, no smoke, no defueling, up to 80+MPH.

Now for question one... for those of you running the ATT, and other varieties of turbos... what is the difference between running a lower boost pressure (reducing exhaust turbine restriction in a GM-x turbo) and higher boost with higher IAT's vs the ATT setup?

And for question two... if you go above the IAT temps allowed by stock computer, it just defuels with no SES light? No scanner or other goodies to chit chat with Mr. Microchips. It just defuels until key cycle? Wondering out loud about this and how the computer handles it? Will it return to normal fuel levels should the IAT's come back into a "normal" range?

OPS Size and location?

proth1975 — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 02:10:04 GMT

What size is the oil pressure switch? I've got big hands, and I'm trying to find out what size wrench to wrap around it.

Also: Does it go right into the block or is there a 90 degree brass fitting?

-P

'94 TD HD Burb

Duramax fan

matuva — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 23:58:46 GMT

Howdy all.

getting tired, too busy or growing older, not sure, but suffering from memory lack, I don't remember the part # of the Duramax fan which bolts on the 4 bolts fan clutch of our rig.

IIRC that's the one from 01 Duramax, or the 02 one, not even sure about that

Anybody knows the part # ? :o

Thanks in advance :thumbsup:

What is the SOLENOID SWITCH, PART NUMBER? Does anybopdy have one for sale?

jrsavoie — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 20:21:46 GMT

What is the STARTER SOLENOID SWITCH, PART NUMBER? Does anybopdy have one for sale?

The local shop quoted me $50.

I have one with the small stud broken off.

Is there an easy fix?

What is the best rear A/C line fix for our 1998 Suburban?

jrsavoie — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 19:58:17 GMT

What is the best rear A/C line fix for our 1998 Suburban?

Somebody used copper linesets leftover from an A/c install.

Is it best to just go back with OEM replacement lines from the dealer?

Is there a better longer lasting option out there?

My turn for advice on buying project 97 K2500 Suburban

fastjohnny — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:27:08 GMT

I haven't seen pics yet, it's got 285K. Current owner has had for about 60K since 2007. PMD is on a cooler, but on the intake, has been changed a couple times. Interior/Exterior is good for age/miles, A/C leaks, 1 new battery,new alternator,new starter,new front brake pads rotors calipers. It will probably need front end work, ball joints/idler/pitman, etc. Now the big one: bad trans, owner states the bell housing cracked, as did the flexplate. If it was just a blown trans, it'd be no big deal, but at this stage, I'm not sure yet, whether I can start/idle it.

Any ideas on what would cause the bellhousing to crack? My concern is if that gave, could the crank have taken a load as well?

What's it worth?

Fellow 6.5'ers with Optima batteries

knkreb — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 02:19:26 GMT

Well, since Bus 2 will be finding a new home in the not to distant future... I moved the set of Optima batteries over too it from Bus 1 (slide out battery drawer, far, far away from the fire in the engine bay)

Since those puppies were pretty expensive, I thought, "hey I'm keepin' them babies" Then the thought crossed my mind... they were 4 nearing 5 years old... usual end of service life of conventional batteries. But these are Optima red tops...

What all have you experienced with these batteries for those who are proud owners of them? Is 5 years near the end the same as lead acid batteries or what? I think I remember someone a long time ago say they got 9 years on theirs.

Tank sealant

Rodd — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 23:36:08 GMT

I was watching musclecar a couple weeks ago and they showed how to coat the inside of your tank with a sealant. Has anyone heard of this or tried it. I know our tanks tend to flake and was thinking something like this would be great if it worked. Then I thought how would it work w/ the baffle in there. Any thoughts?

Ideal 6.5

RD400HP — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:37:42 GMT

If you were to put together an ideal motor using stock 6.2 & 6.5 & even Duramax parts what would those parts consist of? Thanks.

Mark

Argh! Stupid OPS!

TurboTahoe — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 07:36:54 GMT

Hi guys,

Just a reminder that those crazy OPS (Oil Pressure Switches) really don't last long (unless you put in an OPS relay). On the Tahoe, I knew that the Lift Pump was getting on in years (no idea how old it is, but judging from the looks of it, it's been many many years - it has a bunch of dirt and corrosion on it.) Well, I started getting the 'fish bite' symptoms at higher RPM while accelerating (around 2400 RPM). When I got home, I opened the fuel bleed valve, and sure enough, the Tahoe died. Since I put in a new OPS about 3 years ago, I thought to myself that it was probably the Lift Pump. I asked my son to read the multimeter while I lie under the Tahoe (while it is running in Park) and check - sure enough, there is 12V at the connector to the LP, but LP isn't running. I just assumed that the LP was dead, and I promptly ordered a new one from Bill Heath. It arrived in a couple of days, and I stuck it in (note: Bill gives great written instructions as well as those pesky little O-rings that would be hard to find if I just bought the LP from GM).

Anyway, I put the LP in, and then started up the Tahoe, and went to the fuel bleed valve again. Still quits. Oh no! It occurred to me that I didn't even do any diagnostics, I just assumed the LP was dead after my quickie 12V test. I picked up the old LP and applied 12V to it. Purrs away like always. I then apply 12V to the new LP. It also purrs. Well, looks like the 'not that old' OPS is dead - provides 12V to the multimeter, but can't do it under load. ARGH! I go to NAPA, buy their house brand OPS and plop it in. Sure enough, the LP starts running, no problem.

Anyway - the moral of the story is that OPS goes bad quickly, and I need to get cracking on the OPS relay, and that 12V at the LP doesn't mean that it works under load!

Thanks,

Rob :)

P.S. Although I have no fuel pressure gauge, my seat-of-pants dyno says that the new Health HD LP works great! No skips, no fishbite, no hesitation. Tahoe running great again!

Got Another 1995 6.5 Diesel ($700.00) Needs Some Work...

DZZ71 — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 05:00:14 GMT

I picked up another truck today i couldent turn down. It has 395,000km and the owner claims it olny has a blown head gasket. I dont know if thats olny the problem. The guy dident even know what the alternator looked like.... Anyways the oil is way over filled and he said when he parked it the truck was running but blowing white smoke so im not sure. I plan on pulling the engine on next days off.

Dodge towing mirrors?

great white — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 03:26:48 GMT

OK, I know burning oil did a sort thread:

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...mirrors+towing

I have a few questions.

Anyone hook up the power functions yet? What was involved? Difficult or just "remapping" the wires?

Do they make a significant difference towing? (IE visibility)

How much wider are they than the stock mirrors when in the "normal" position? (truck barely fits in garage with GM mirrors)

Question about 93 Spec Lift pump amperage pull vs. other years

GM Guy — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 22:05:52 GMT

I am needing to stick a Lift pump in one of my rigs (the new 99 Chassis cab that isnt in my signature yet, sold old man the 96 to finace the 99 :) ) and I was wondering about how many amps the 93 lp pulls vs. other year lps. the reason I ask is that I am concerned about harming the factory wiring or limiting the life span of the ops or relay.

so, should i be concerned about the life span of the components, and stick with the 99 spec lp, or is the difference so little, I should buy a 93 pump?

also, what was the first year that the LP was ran from an OEM relay, and not directly off the OPS? was it 96?

any input appreciated, thanks!

dtc 16

gulfyankee — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 17:25:54 GMT

Am showing a code 16 vss buffer fault. Also ABS light comes on at about 15 mph and goes back off when below 15 mph. Also no cruise control. What's the fix?

Thanks Bison

chessie 6.5 — Sun, 05 Sep 2010 13:40:17 GMT

Thanks for the tutorial on the IP and emails. I was able to take pump apart, replace shaft seals and sucessfully reassemble.A lot different than old 5.7 and 6.2 pumps Truck is running great now.:thumbsup:

6.5 cleaning intake

RD400HP — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 15:11:03 GMT

Is there any problem's with pouring any cleaner down the intake of one of our motors. I bought a can of Sea Foam and it says with a warm running motor to pour 1/3 of a pint down the intake then turn motor off for 5 minutes then start it back up ,tune up in a can.

Mark

Rebuilt injectors just won't stop making noise and smoke

Steve93mustanglx — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 14:12:26 GMT

Take a look at these pics please- I just removed a 3rd bad rebuilt injector a few weeks ago. My 150,000 mile originals NEVER gave me any issues. I replaced them "cuz I was living on borrowed time". Well, this is the 3rd time I have yanked the turbo to do this and quite frankly, it's getting old.

Here are a couple pics. pic 1 is driver's side, 1-7 cylinders (left to right). pic 2 is turbo side, left to right cyl 8-2.

Cylinder 1 is an old injector I swapped 2 weeks ago and it has been in for easily 600 miles.

I don't see anything here that screams "bad injector", but the noise under acceleration(fuel knock) and smoke at idle (occasional only) are driving me nuts.

No fuel leaks anywhere. No change in fuel stations. Tried to purge any air in system. Lift pump OK. Fuel filter 1 month old. Thoughts?

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worn injector damage?

matuva — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 13:19:25 GMT

That's what I bet by looking at that piston : the head of the piston is completely worn. So worn that the piston finally broke.

Is that that kind of damage we meet with worn injectors ?
Attachment 21486

This # 8 piston on a 929 block (1994?) found in a 1998 rig

Of course, it has to be changed. It seems it can be done "by under", after taking out the oil pan.

Any has already done that ? Do we have to pull the engine or not ?

I will check closer tomorrow, but I do believe it can be done with hte engine inside, but I'm not sure it will be an easy task....
Any idea ?

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crud in my fuel tank, stretched wire harness?

Rafedial1 — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 01:07:43 GMT

the 96 c2500 in my sig is having a strange problem. Under an abrupt accel, the truck cuts out fuel and dies. This only happens when I encourage it to, sometimes not(intermittent) So, the usual...

-batteries are ok, alt ok
-just replaced all main cable terminals and grounds, starter, engine grounds as well
-lift works, primes at ko-eo, new fuel pump relay
-fuel quality itself, always a reliable local co-op source
-basically all serviceable fuel system parts are new, and oem if possible
-IP age unknown, but I do not suspect the IP is the issue, ruled out
-no fuel leaks anywhere
-PMD newer

the only place I have not ventured into, the fuel tank. could a snotty fuel pickup sock be causing these problems? fuel cutting out? is my pickup tube rusted out?
it isn't until the lift draws a large volume all at once...then...no fuel

fuel level does not matter.

the only other issue is the weatherpack connectors under the hood have all suffered the effects of long term heat and are dry cracked. most missing clips and needing a zip tie(i know). so could hard accel/coupled with engine torqueing be causing my main engine harness to stretch and cause erradic signals? (optical sensor)

does anyone know where to buy these individual #pin weatherpaks? or should I source another harness from the "yard"?

anythoughts are appeciated.

OBD2 ECM interchangability

Acesneights1 — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 22:01:45 GMT

Will the ECM from my 98 Burb work with my 2000 K3500 and vice versa ?

Changing over the clutch fan

Bigburban — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 21:39:57 GMT

I am going to change my fan clutch and fan over to the Duramax fan set up but I was wanting to know if anyone has done this on a suburban and has there been any clearance issues? The new fan setup is 21 inches mine is 20 inches but my shroud messures 22 inches. With a plastic fan blade isn't there going to be a little flexing?

Whistle while you work... GM-8 and soot trap-ectomy

knkreb — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 04:46:53 GMT

So Mr. Sooty is history... wow... that was one heck of a restriction. Took pics, will post later.

So, with help of my son tonight, we castrated the exhaust. When it hit the ground I told him it was time for the celebratory "sing." Whenever the soot trap was off the Bus 1, it would whistle at idle... oh what a sweet sound. So, tonight, start it up... no sing, no whistle, no nuttin'. Just a barking engine. Hmmm... turbo is spinning (checked it out) but still no whistle.

Anyone else have a similar experience with theirs?

Looking At Another Truck

bk95td — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 03:01:16 GMT

I went and looked at a 95 k1500 6.5td today. It's pretty plain[cheyanne interior]The body is starting to show some rust above the rear wheels and bottoms of the doors. Not real bad yet. It has a little over 200,000 miles on it.Tires are excellent.
The seller thinks the injection pump is bad:eek:. A stealer told him that. I brought my tech 1 with me to check it out. No codes. I started it and it ran ok for maybe 3 minutes then just shut off. It has a brand new airtex lift pump. I couldn't hear it running. The seller also said he had replaced the pmd lately. It is mounted on a ss diesel heat sink on the intake:nonod:
I'm thinking the fsd fried and possibly the ops.
Seller is asking $2000 or best offer. He has already bought a chevy hhr. I'm thinking $12-1500 for it.
What do you think? I'm going to look at 2 k2500hd's tomorrow[asking $3500 each or offer]:???:

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need verification before dropping the money

1995yukon65 — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 20:35:30 GMT

Alright guys and gal, im getting ready to order the duramax fan and a 97 fan clutch off rockauto. I just want to hear it from you guys that the fan will indeed fit the clutch and the clutch will fit my water pump. My truck does still have the four bolt clutch on it, and i believe it and the waterpump are original. the only issue is it likes to hover around 200-210 just driving around without a load, so when i order the clutch and fan im going to clean the radiator and condensor as good as i can since my dad has plenty of a/c coil cleaner. Thanks in advance

Anyone use an exhaust brake on a 6.5?

great white — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:30:31 GMT

I've recently bought a trailer (29 feet overall) and was wondering if anyone uses (or if one is even available) for my 98 6.5.

It's very mountanous here and I wouldn't mind an extra bit of speed control on the downhills to ease off on the brake system.....

Intake manifold on 1995 6.5

konstan — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:18:57 GMT

I have the PMD relocate cable that should be getting here pretty quick... I searched and read the posts that descrive removing the PMD using some contortionist tricks and ground down allen wrenches.

I am thinking I will just remove the manifold, which will allow me to do the "dremel intake gut mod".

Is removing the manifold a PITA? Or is it really just the few bolts and new gaskets and that's it?

Bought a trailer, did I go too big?

great white — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 02:50:43 GMT

2011 Flagstone super lite 26rlss.

http://www.forestriverinc.com/nd/ult...gstaff2010.pdf

Tow vehicle is in my sig.

Did I jump too far into the deep end for my old truck?

Wisconsin Evilbay purchase

RD400HP — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 19:18:41 GMT

Well I got back last night with my old yellow 95 6.5 N/A truck. I have to make an adjustment to the paint on the truck ,originaly I thought it looked like a 20 foot paint job but I actually believe it is more like a 50 footer. My nephew told me thats one ugly truck , it does kind of stand out I guess.

For having junk tires up front the old girl went down the road pretty good for having 148K on the clock. Temp stayed between 185/190 all day, oil pressure stayed at 40 but I noticed the needle liked to move around a little bit a pound or two have to get a mech gauge.

Man that is one heavy motor! I really noticed having all that weight up front from the feel of the steering wheel.I didn't gouge on it or anything I figured I would wait to get home before I blew it up, but she held the hills pretty decent, I know I have to get cruise put on that truck that throttle pedal SUCKS!!!

Couple of questions I have is how does the motor respond to a pressure cleaning is everything sealed up ok in there? And I took the aircleaner off today and noticed that it was really crappy looking inside the intake manifold, thick caked on black crap. Is this normal for that crap to be in there like that and I would imagine that I have to take the intake off to clean it, I'm I correct in this ?

And lastly my option codes sticker is still on the glove box door where can I find out what the codes are? Thanks.

Mark

97 6.5l SUBURBAN STARTING PROBLEMS

pitsingerk — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 11:41:46 GMT

I'm having issues with my Subruban starting. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch in the steering column but want a second or third opinion. This past Friday I got in the burb to head out, hit the key and nothing, not a click or anything. I was in a hurry so I jumped in my other truck and left. Saturday morning, I thought I would try it again and it started right up. The starter cranks fast like it should, batteries are new, grounds have been cleaned recently. Went to head out yesterday morning and it wouldn't start again and is now sitting dead in the driveway. Any ideas guys?

Another one for the parts pile

bk95td — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 02:36:44 GMT

I drug home another parts truck this past weekend:rolleyes5: It's a 97 k2500hd ,6.5, 4l80e, ex-cab, sb, 3.70 gears, tow package and overhead console.
It had been canibilized for the front clip, rad,bumpers,seats, passenger door, and carpet.
The seller said the bottom end gave out. Bad noises. He was the original owner. In the last 40k it had new heads and ip. He had slips for $4300 for parts and labor. The truck has 304,000 on it.
I should be able to harvest quite a few good parts like the k47 airbox:thumbsup: 8 blade fan, heads,ip and 3.70 axles to swap out the 4.10s in one of my other trucks.
Not much to look at.Any of the body that's left is rusty.

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6.5? Everybody swaps them OUT right? Well.....

great white — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 02:13:43 GMT

http://www.brunswickdiesels.com.au/new/stories.php

Maybve not everyone rips 'em out and chucks 'em in the crapper.

Great swap for a light 4x4 looking for good MPG it seems......:)

Bad news, DaHoooley down

Missy Good Wench — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 00:50:55 GMT

DaHoooley started puking coolant this afternoon on the way back from town.

Never got too hot though. Gauge hit 205 twice and then cooled off again.

Still had coolant in the jug when I got it home.

I suspect possibly a cracked head.

Will yank the engine out this weekend if I can get to it.

Got the truck into a place that I can get to it with tools and the Bobcat to yank the engine.

If there is a silver lining to the dark cloud, it would be that the engine is clean and all the bolts on such things as the exhaust manifolds will all come right out easily.

Engine oil level is fine and no steam out the exhaust either. Let it set for 15 minutes and it fired up well with no indications of coolant in a cylinder.

All good things I guess.

Can't really howl too much though as I built this engine using as many used parts as I could find.

The heads were both magged and pressure tested but thats not always the total answer.

As soonas I get some info after the autopsy, I will post the damages as well as piccy's.

Hopefully its something simple (never) :eek:

At least the thing did not get hot or fill the CC with green juice.

Lots of new parts that can be reused on whatever I end up bolting back together.

Missy sits brooding in the corner.

later MGW

C2500 HD TD 'Burb dies, fires back up.

proth1975 — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 21:04:39 GMT

New (to me 'Burb) has some "issues".

OK... I'm driving along, 40 or so miles later, my 6.5TD dies. I pull over, it fires right back up. I go a couple blocks up the road, same thing. It does it once more. I get back on the freeway, and I'm good all 40 miles back.

The PO gave me a BOX of PMDs from eBay. He'd relocated the PMD to the bumper with some electrical tape.

So... this is a) my first diesel, and b) kinda freaking unnerving.

Any thoughts?

-P

'94 C2500 HD TD 'Burb

Name that part... cooling system thermostat housing

knkreb — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 10:45:19 GMT

What is that little do-dad that comes off the the thermostat housing and looks like some quick push in for coolant to go on to the back of the passenger side engine where the coolant line's Tee's are connected? Mine is leaking slowly...

WARNING!!! Bad threads on Interdynamics Arctic Freeze R-134A Refrigerant 13 oz cans!

WarWagon — Mon, 30 Aug 2010 06:59:09 GMT

:scared:
WARNING!!! Bad threads on Interdynamics Arctic Freeze R-134A Refrigerant 13 oz cans!

Check that the threads are rolled properly on the can top before use. I just picked up three at O'reilly's (Checker) that weren't made well. My first clue was when the can blew out of the can tap. I had my hand on the can so I was able to point the 'freeze burn rocket' in a safe direction.

Just inspect the can threads to see if they are rounded and shallow. Return it if they are!

I suspect there will be a recall soon.

Piss poor quality control! :mad2:

Thanks and credit to 94blazer for quickly pointing this defect out after the cloud dissipated.

Need Muffler Info

handcannon — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 06:29:56 GMT

I recently installed a Diamond Eye 4" exhaust system, with their muffler, in my 94 K250. I like the system, except for the sound while towing. I'm not real fond of very loud exhaust and the DE w/muffler is right on the edge of what I can stand. It helps me go real easy on the go pedal most of the time.

However, when towing my travel trailer and having to go up hill, the sound is too much for me. The loudness and resonating/vibrating inside the cab gets to be too much.

I lifted the following comment by Buddy out of the "Att and KOJO tune" thread where he talks about his 4" exhaust and how he prefers a quieter system.

Quote:

4" with 4" Aeroturbine muffler to 5" Aeroturbine muffler and 5" exit, works really well, muffles OK and I think works better than just one aeroturbine muffler. So the in series claim they make is for real. I would highly recommend two AT4040XLs (or one AT4040 and one AT4040XL) in series, but expensive, looks cool though.

I have done some searching on the 4040XL Aero Turbine muffler and like what I see. The prices are too much for me to double them up as Buddy is suggesting, however I did find one place in CA that will sell them for $110 with free shipping to the lower 48 states.

My question is--- has anybody used one of these mufflers on their truck and towed with it? Will this muffler stop the drone/resonating? I don't mind a muffler that is a little louder than stock, but the resonating/vibrating in the cab is driving me nuts (and deaf)! I know, I'm showing my age.

If anybody has a different setup they have successfully used without the resonating and vibrating the cab problem, without causing back pressure problems, I'm interested in that also.

Thanks
Don

No lift pump pressure

6.5TD Burb — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 02:47:18 GMT

Is is possible to have a clogged fuel filter and it be as white as it was when installed? What brings this up:

Reading 0 fuel pressure. Mechanical gauge installed between filter manager and IP. When it cranked it would build up to 7psi and promptly fall to 0 when it ran. New OPS, new LP. Dropped the tank to check the sock; it was most definitely dirty but I wouldn't call it clogged, at least IMHO. Opened the bleeder on the filter manager (hot wired LP and when running) and nothing came out, not even air.

Fellow Suburbanites... how's your mpg doin'?

knkreb — Sun, 29 Aug 2010 02:29:37 GMT

First fill up at 200 miles... 16.1 mpg. Highway miles, holding steady to the speed limit (with a little fun in between).

3.73 "F" engine. What say ya'll? About average?

Soot trap still intact with GM-8 turbo. No other fun stuff yet.

Looking for efficiency and LONGEVITY... not the 1/4 mile time.

Going price for6.5 LB

RD400HP — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 21:21:41 GMT

I don't know where this should be but if its in the wrong place feel free to move it mods. My question is, $500 to much to pay for a 6.5? All I know about it right now is the block has been baked (I hope he doesn't mean while it was still in the truck), new cam bearing,crank has been turned .10, heads have been pressure checked and it has the rods & pistons, I don't know if anymore parts come with it or not he hasn't answered my e-mail yet, thanks.

I just found another 6.5, shortblock 90K pretty greasy , has timing gears housing & water pump, balancer, it has the turbo setup,exhaust manifolds, turbo, intake manifold & some other odds & ends for $200. it came out of a 95.

Mark

Rear wheel seal leaking on 1998 K2500 Suburban Abused

jrsavoie — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 17:31:45 GMT

The rear wheel seal was leaking on 1998 K2500 Suburban.

I took it apart and found that whoever had changed it previously had drove a screwdriver in between the seal and the hub, half way around.

The hub is gouged up pretty good.

Is there some kind of miracle coating I can apply on that half the hub after I sand the humps down to seal the seal?

Do you think High Tack on the seal and hub would hold back the oil?

You can no believe how irritated I was when I pullred the seal out and saw that.

I have pictures but I do not know how to load them anymore. I clicked on manage attachments and it gave pe all the pictures I have previously posted. I couldn't figure out how to post the new pictures.

What are my options apart from getting different hubs?

I really regret selling the 2 trucks I had last year. They were even the correct gear ratios

Is there a way to click edit and add the pictures?

any bad reports?

deezl duly — Sat, 28 Aug 2010 16:13:52 GMT

i finally found a motor for my 95 dually, and im thinking about buying alot of stuff from s&s diesel out of n.y. they seem real respected, just wanted to hear from the real people any pros/cons etc. thanks:

2 quick questions

treegump — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 23:47:56 GMT

1: Fan removal / accessing clutch spring - how do I get to the spring on the front of the fan clutch? I assume everyone just removes the fan? Is that done by removing the 4 or 5 bolts and it just comes off? Would I need mark where it comes off, or is balance an issue with reattaching the fan?

2: Coolant overflow resevoir cap: Is it supposed to be extremely difficult to remove and put back on? I can barely turn it when the tank is not pressurized. Is this a sign that its bad? Any thing I should look out for when I replace it?

Thanks!

CDR valve?

great white — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 20:07:39 GMT

So, my 6.5 has a fair bit of blowby. It also has a fair bit of oil in the bloody intake/turbo.

I've done the water test before and if I recall it pushes the water down about 1/8-1/4 inch at idle but pulls it up about 4-6 inches at 2000. IIRC, that's too much vacuum at 2000 rpm, which indicates a bad CDR.

I'm about to go out to do a redo the "water check" to confirm what I remember.

I'm thinking the CDR is pooched in addition to a.......ahem...... "well seasoned" engine.

Couple Q's:

1. Anyone think a new CDR may lessen the oil in the intake? (I doubt anything will eliminate it)

2. I know the purpose of a CDR is to limit the vacuum at higher RPM's in a turbo diesel. But, how is it constructed internally? (IE: butyl rubber diaphragm and spring, shuttle valve, etc). Or, what fails inside a CDR if that's a better question....

3. Any point in trying to clean it? I think I've read soaking overnight in diesel or kero sometimes cleans a sticking CDR. Although, mine seems to be so soaked in fresh (well, sooty black) oil, I'm leaning more towards a failure than "gunked up".

4. Or, am I just experiencing the symptoms of a worn engine and the cdr just can't cope with it?

Just looking for some good input before I order one and plunk down a 100 or so bucks.....

6.5 engine builder, anyone have experience with them?

great white — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:46:19 GMT

http://www.6-5liter.com/index.html

Ran across them on a random search.

Web site seems to talk the talk, do they walk the walk?

Just wondering.....

98 K2500 Suburban thermostats, sending unit or temp gauge?

jrsavoie — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:37:46 GMT

I had the thermostats changed in the 98 a couple of years ago. It has only run at 160 degrees on the gauge since.
I do not know what the gauge was reading before the stat change as I don't drive the vehicle very often.

The guy did not use Delco stats as I requested. He used Napa 190 degree stats.
The Suburban had plenty of heat for the heater in the winters.
Is there any possibility that it is not the stats?

The original owner had the same problem as there was a dealer service call slip describing the problem in the glove box.
It didn't have any diagnostics or a repair slip withit though. It would have been under warranty at that time.

Any good way of checking the actual temp beofre I change the stats?

I do have a thermometer style temp gauge here. Is there a good place to install it temporarily?

I also have an infrared thermometer. But I'm not sure how much I trust it.

1998 K2500 Suburban rear brakes

jrsavoie — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 02:26:17 GMT

I'm starting the rear brakes Friday/tomorrow.
Rear axles seals, wheel cylinders and shoes.
Wish I had more time and money I'd go for discs.

Any advice or warnings before I tear into it?

Stumped???

broken6.5 — Fri, 27 Aug 2010 01:29:39 GMT

Need some help. Installed a new IP on a 99 6.5 (F). Went to check timing with the computer(Snap On MODIS), did KOKO, timing is advanced to 14.00 due to the ECT feed stating coolant temp is -40. Replaced ECT sensor on top of engine. No change. Traced black and yellow sensor wires back to the ECM, both are acceptable. No apparent shorts to neighboring terminals. When running, the engine really does not like the black and yellows jumped(closed), stumbles when removed removed from the sensor (open). Pump is static mounted correctly.

Any ideas on next steps???? Thanks

K47 Air Box

colbythekid — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 18:19:11 GMT

Last week I ordered a K47 Air box for my 95 burb. Only problem is I did not ask for / get the hose that goes from the air box to the turbo.

I called the junk yard (LKQ Crystal River) and they said that they don�t sell the hoses. He looked for the truck in their inventory and could not find it.

Does anyone know where I might be able to find the hose that goes from the air box to the turbo for a K47?

Thanks

Colby

Great post IMO thought some here might be interested...

Crankme69 — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 14:48:25 GMT

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/sho...d.php?t=386775 :thumbsup:

Moderators my apologies in advance if this is not allowed here…

B/r 69

FSD/PMD an experiment

Turbine Doc — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 13:35:10 GMT

This is from the old site I thought I had posted before here but could not find it this morning wanting to point Chessie to it as a reference point of prior experimentation posted back in 2004.

6-27-2004

I have a little experiment I have been thinking on, that I finally got around to doing with the infamous FSD, maybe old ground already covered maybe not.

In Jan 04 I had a FSD "go bad", shut me down on the highway on a return trip from my hunting camp about 2 hours into the 2.5 hr return trip, outside temp was 50F, FSD mounted on a cooler was cool to the touch but would not let the truck start, it had stumbled a couple of times before shutting down, 1 restart then no start. At the time that FSD had about 50K on it, swapped to the new spare I carry and came home. New spare has about 10 K mi on it.

I got home and cleaned up the Bad FSDs transistor mount studs , nuts, to remove any oxidation that might be present, and re-torqued to 10" lb, I slaved it in and truck started right up, it became my spare.

With all the debate it's heat, its loose fasteners, I decided to run an experiment but did not get to it today. Bad FSD reinstalled at 84200, now at 84212mi no problems, will long road test tomorrow.

I took "bad" FSD and; reinstalled it on the cooler, but I 1st filed a small groove in it's base to accommodate a thermocouple wire that touches one of the transistor bases just to see how hot these things actually get and how long will this "bad" one hang in there.

My cooler is mounted on drivers side fender in pocket/bracket where a gassers washer fluid tank goes.

My engine was warm I had been road testing brakes after installing new stainless braided brake lines, I had run it for about 15 minutes. I only have 1 thermocouple so I don't know under-hood temp, ambient air was 80 F.

1st run was 15 minutes with engine at idle, hood down FSD at 96F starting went to 144.8 F in 15 minutes

I shut down the engine for 25 min and temp had dropped to 119.3

I restarted engine and drove for 10 min city traffic 0-50 mph temp varied 135-139

Shut down for another 6 min temp went to 131, restarted and within 4 min 40 sec temp rose to 151.6

Shut down engine after 6 min of driving 0-50 and engine was 150.7

After 42 minutes FSD had cooled to 129.3

After 2 hr 10 minutes FSD was 116 deg

Truck restarted FSD 7min 45 sec 116F up to 133 F 0-50 driving approx 2 miles

shutdown for evening FSD after 30 min back to 118

Will collect more data in AM, I'll also be collecting some numbers on IP PMD location later

Stalling and other abnormal behavior

Sinners Saint — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 05:14:39 GMT

Ok I'm back with another issue. I searched the forums but can't quit figure out if my issue is what I think it is. I noticed here about a week ago that the truck would stall when I got on it hard sometimes. Also every once in a while it would die shortly after start just idling in the driveway. I thought maybe the fuel filter needed changing, so I changed it. Its still acting up and has gotten slightly worse. I noticed that when I'm setting at lights or just parked idling that the SES light would come on, but if I tap the throttle it goes off. So the code is not storing and I don't know if you can hook up a dianostic with the engine running on OBD1 trucks.
I was thinking maybe the LP is going out, I jumped it and it is putting out fuel through the filter bleeder. Does not squirt it out all over the place like it did when I did it the first time I changed the filter, but it does pretty well. Do these symptoms sound like a failing LP to you guys?

Exhaust leak? Turbo Sound?

knkreb — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 02:32:29 GMT

Since I now have a truck chassis... this is a whole different deal than the van (bus) from before. The sound of the engine is very different in the cab vs having just a dog house to dampen the noise.

The wastegate was not operational at first, but now I have it locked shut for the moment. I don't have a boost gauge or anything else to verify operation... but I don't *think* I'm building a whole lota boost.

There seems to be sound, almost like an exhaust leak maybe somewhere in the system. Anyone have a quick fire way of pin pointing that? Engine running seems to drown out any small leaky noises. I was thinking of using a shop vac blowing up the tail pipe to see if I could hear anything under hood.....

Clue number two is, with the wastegate locked shut, I went WOT, and never threw a code for over boost.

Clue number three is subjective of course... Is the turbo very noticeable in it's sound in the cab? I could very clearly hear the turbo in bus 1 with it only 12" away from my right foot. But this has that plastic tube thingy projecting out from the turbo inlet, etc.

Bus 1 had a soot trap that was "opened up" for full flow. This also greatly improved the turbo sound.

I noticed the difference tonight as opposed to the first test drive... less smoke on WOT. I had a little blast at the beginning, and shifting. The first test drive was a bit lethargic, and quite a bit of hazy black smoke (not belching of clouds).

So, am I just getting deaf on the turbo sound, and how to check for a leak?

Vacuum Pump delete Question...

knkreb — Thu, 26 Aug 2010 02:09:35 GMT

Well, the vacuum pump is no good in the burb. It has a little in and out pulsation on the vacuum line. Since it's an 'F' engine, I think we can do away with the extra stuff that is driven or fail at the worst possible moment.

In reading about the vacuum pump delete, I take it that there is no "dumby pulley" needed in it's place? A/C compressor is drivers side, vacuum pump is passenger side.

I saw the belt length differences, but nothing about if anything goes in place of it.

Why do people say to remove the plastic engine cover?

konstan — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 22:11:14 GMT

I was looking for something, and came across a thread where people were saying that the plastic cover (the one that says Turbo Power) should be removed and left on the top shelf in the garage.

Why?

Does it make the engine hotter?

Or is it just because they don't want to keep having to remove it to work on stuff?

installing front pinion flange sealant or lubricant on spline?

jrsavoie — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 14:43:42 GMT

When installing front pinion flange do you use sealant or lubricant on spline?

There appeared to be a pipe dope like substance in the splines when I removed it.

Didn't say anything in the book.

Sealant - this is what I found searching:

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/sh...hp?tid/247524/

1992-1993 TCC lockup mod 4L80E

WarWagon — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 03:54:29 GMT

The oddball year that the PCM (ECM) computer controls the transmission only.

The "brown wire" Heath mod does not apply to all years and there is really no reason to go outside the cab to mod or tap PCM wires.

To do this mod pull the glovebox to access the computer. Look on the right/passenger side connector for a tan wire with a black stripe. (F&%$ going under the truck to look at or cut the transmission wires. 1994 on up may have to do this and there are other guides for newer years that do not go under the truck.)

Cut this wire.

Get a two position switch, SPDT. Select1, Center, Select2.
Connect:
ECM side to a side of 3 way switch.
Ground to another side of the 3 way switch.
Transmission side to the center pole of the 3 way switch. Transmission is of course the wire you cut not going into the ECM connector but the body side.

You will throw a TCC open/short code. No Service Engine soon light will come on.

Optional:
To eliminate this code use a resistor or relay with a surge diode from a positive voltage source tapped into the ECM side wire. This keeps a voltage to the ECM pin, but, will limit current when the ECM grounds the pin. The ECM will not see an open circuit and no code.

So relay coil and diode stripe side to positive voltage. Relay coil and diode to ECM pin.

Reference:

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...51-1030390.pdf

on CL: Holset HE351VE Turbo Chargers from 6.7L 24v cummins

chefmike — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 02:08:57 GMT

Not sure if this would help any one out:

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/pts/1908043826.html

But I thought I would slap it up, as the price seems right.

HVAC box

6fiveturbo — Wed, 25 Aug 2010 01:02:56 GMT

how hard is it to get to? is it easier to remove the dash to get to it or try and go through the bottom some how?

Pulling out powertrain on 4x4. Can it be done with the transfercase on the trans?

WarWagon — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 07:31:59 GMT

Pulling out powertrain on 1993 K2500 4x4, Can it be done with the transfercase on the transmission? Cab in place this time. Just wondering if the t-case clears everything?

I touched it!! Heath's WLS truck!!

gmccrewcabdually — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 06:12:31 GMT

I touched it!! Tehehe

So drove threw Ellensburg today and stopped by Heath diesel and picked up my new injectors!! All I have to say is what a cool bunch of guys!! So friendly and willing to talk!! Even Mr. Bill Heath was there!! Even he cam out and talked with me for a bit! I felt like if I stayed he would have invited me to dinner to keep talking about the 6.5L TD!! It was a lot of fun to talk to them and plan to visit every time I get a chance!! Defiantly People I will do business with any chance I get!!!

Pete

Attachment 21328 Attachment 21329

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Back from the dark side

knkreb — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 03:20:14 GMT

Now ladies and gentlemen, proudly on display in the driveway... 97 2500 Suburban 6.5 TD.... 3.73.

Gonna have to refreshen some of these old 6.5 skills pretty soon....

turbo

6fiveturbo — Tue, 24 Aug 2010 01:02:11 GMT

what is the size (mm) of the stock turbo? i hear cummins ppl talk about 64mms and 72mms upgrades for theres and talk about how small a stock 6.5 turbo is compared to a stock cummins one. so just wondering our size lol

no start

dusty — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 22:28:52 GMT

hey guys have problem started couple days ago truck quit while driving shut off key tried restart started then quit in bout 2 seconds did this couple times then i noticed when i turned key on the engine light and the wait to start lite were very dim then faded out turned key off and on few times lites went on truck started sometimes when i go to start this happens again ?? any info app .

Water in fuel sensor & fuel heater in the fuel filter housing ?

Crankme69 — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:34:15 GMT

Questions about the filter manager on my 95...?

Is the fuel heater in the filter manager the same element as the water in fuel sensor�are they one in the same?

I so far have unplugged the 2 wire connector directly located behind the fuel manager that appears to have 2 wires running to the bottom section of the filter housing, best I can see anyways without removing the filter housing.

Is there another plug for the fuel heater or does this 2 wire plug supply power to both the water in fuel sensor & the fuel heater in the fuel manager or like I asked above does the one element do both?

TIA :thumbsup:

Installing oil fill neck - Sealant or oil?

jrsavoie — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 15:04:25 GMT

When you install the oil fill neck do you use any sealant or just a light coat of oil so it slips in?

Looking at buying a work truck

Solduios — Mon, 23 Aug 2010 03:56:32 GMT

Hello guys I am looking at bidding on a military surplus truck and turning into a work/outdoors truck.

http://www.govliquidation.com/auctio...tionId=3565450

1986 Chevrolet Truck, Carryall, Powered by a 6.2 liter diesel V-8 engine, automatic transmission, two speed transfer case, four wheel drive.
its a truck lol but they call it a carryall anyways before I make this a work truck there is a few things I need to know.

First what do I need to look out for in this model any major things I can deal with some minor issues if they dont add up to bad.

Will this thing eat me alive in gas? If so how hard would it to make it into a diesel propane hybrid for better mpg? (what do I expect to pay for propane mod?)

How much is to much to bid or spend I am looking for something cheap and reliable and I always liked the way older chevy trucks looked.

turbo oil drain gasket

iamdave0887 — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:35:46 GMT

Well i had the gaskets from Heath to re-install the turbocharger on the 94 K3500 in my driveway, until last night.

Overnight the damn gaskets grew legs and ran off. Just great. I can't find them anywhere in the house, in any of the trucks, in the trash, nowhere. :cussing:

What have you guys used for the oil drain gasket? The gasket i had was pretty thick, so one would think regular gasket paper won't work.

I'm not super concerned about the manifold to exhaust inlet on the turbocharger as a friend of mine has used grease to seal that before and it worked perfectly fine.

I can't justify another injector install kit from Heath, for just that one gasket. The owner of this truck has spent enough money already.

Thanks guys,

- Dave

Screen door spring together with the Vac control for BOOST!

Crankme69 — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 17:01:16 GMT

Today I unplugged what I hope to be the fuel heater for my 6.5 in an attempt to determine what is blowing my 20 amp IGN A fuse. This fuse powers the vac solenoid, GP controller, along with the fuel heater & water in fuel sensor from what I have been told and researched. Thanks Barry!!!

In a pinch with NO boost I slipped a screen door spring over the end of my boost rod where it attaches to the wastegate arm on the turbo. This gave me about 3lbs boost at 70mph & about 8lbs at WOT. Not great but better then nuttin when yr 650 miles from home on a fishing trip. We had to remember to pull the cabin screen door shut but that was no biggie LOL!

Well today I unhooked the fuel heater at the filter manager to further trouble shoot the problem with the 20 amp fuse blowing. I then was going to unhook the spring and thought why not just leave it on there until I can confirm what is blowing the fuse...and run the vac control along with the spring?

Well I took the ole girl for a short ride & promptly placed the go pedal to the floor WOT & to my surprise the boost jumped to about 15lbs and then quickly leveled back off at 12lbs with my HOE made spring assist along with the vac control & my custom chip! NO smoke what so ever & this thing has never run like this before.

I am amazed at the reaction I got from assisting that vac boost control with a cheesy little screen door spring...WOW!

Kinda thinking like I might leave it like this...what say you? Nice knowing that I can have the vac control for accuracy along with the spring for security. This seems like the best of both worlds to me, maybe I should patten this LOL!!!

TIA :rof:

Conversion to D-max anyone?

bk95td — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 12:52:49 GMT

I saw this and thought it was a fairly cheap price for a "new" engine. Parts guy at the local stealer told me it was way over $10,000 :eek:for one from GM. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/da...912219087.html

normal oil pressure

chessie 6.5 — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 02:01:17 GMT

What is your normal oil pressure: cold idle, hot cruise, hot idle. Oh, and oil weight/synthetic/ non synthetic. Thanks.

No Blower Motor at any speed.

SnowDrift — Sun, 22 Aug 2010 01:41:27 GMT

I posted this in the electrical section, but also realize it's specific to the model years/makes with the 6.5 ('95, in particular), so I'm posting here, too. The link to the other post is below in case someone needs to look through it in a future search.

My blower motor spins when I hook 12v directly to it. When I have the key on, I have 12 volt power to the purple power wire in the first 3 settings, but the 4th setting gives me no power. What is this pointing to? Is the relay the square box on top of the air box that I cannot see the connection unless I remove it and the bracket?

I also have power to the ground wire through all four settings, as well as power to ground when the relay is unplugged. Where does the ground wire attach to the inside of the cab? I tried to follow it, but it seems to go into a harness and is wrapped to where it can't be seen.

http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...an-on-95-c2500

RPM's

figment — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 19:33:48 GMT

Is there a way to calibrate the RPM gauge, I know the feed comes from the alternater. The bearings went in my old one and just got a reman replacement, and new belt. Now at 65 mph the rpm' s are reading at about 23-2400, before I changed it would read it at 19-2000. If knew that the pulley's were a different size I would've taken the one off the old one before I had it recycled.:mad2:

Euro headlight mod

matuva — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:41:38 GMT

Finally. I won't try to tell you fairy tales : I promised I will post a "how to" which will help you to mod these euro headlights so they will perfectly fit.

I promised, but wasn't able to do in time, and I apologize for that, whatever were my reasons (lazy, dog days, lack of time...)

Once again I apologize guys.

The problem lays here : the retainer on the top/middle of headlight is too long, 3/8" too long, and it pushes the all block "outside".
Solution so is to shorten it.

Here are pics with comments, and I hope they will helpful and clear enough.

Attachment 21188 Attachment 21190 Attachment 21193

Attachment 21194 Attachment 21186

Attachment 21187

Attachment 21189 Attachment 21192

use a 1.2" long flat screw, re-screw the holder
Attachment 21195
Attachment 21191

Once the mod done, re-mount the adjusters, back plate, adjust the all thing, and they should fit perfect. That works each time I did the mod.

Hope that helps.

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Higher RPM's but less fuel...

poptopjr — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 04:40:45 GMT

With taller tires, I'm running 305/70's, would 4.10's actually help improve my fuel mileage?

I've always figured a taller gear meant higher RPM's which meant more fuel, but it should actually take less fuel to go the same speed, shouldn't it?

I'm still learning about the 6.5, I've read that 1800 RPM's is where the most torque is created and that is where the best mileage is.

What is the preference? I tow a boat, about 5k pounds, but a lot of drag. I'm thinking of switching to 4.10's from 3.73's. What should I expect?

Thanks for your input.

Keith

Euro Head Light Housings from ebay: Cannot Recommend

Big T — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 03:10:17 GMT

Can't find the thread here anymore, but a few months back there was a thread on HID head lights and in it there was a recommendation provided for euro style headlight housings sold on ebay. Another poster and myself bought them. The other poster had issues with the lights not sitting flush and was able to get his shipping costs refunded. It seemed at the time like mine had less issues than his, but when installed they did not sit flush. Following advice, I sealed around the housings with silicone and despite that, still got water inside one housing after just a light washing of the truck. The clips holding the lens to the housing are loose and I used silicone to hold them in place. The biggest problem is that no matter how much I work the adjusting bolts, there's no adjustment left or right. The up down adjuster on the passenger side bottomed out with the light above where I needed it to match the driver side and now the bottom of the housing rocks out and up. Yes it is loose and it potentially wobbles. As a result, I have yet to install the HID kits that I purchased. Very frustrating. Just letting others here know about the problems so they can steer clear of these. I did keep the OEM housings. They're badly yellowed and scaled up, but maybe the 3M treatment will clean them up.

Glow plugs swollen... can't get tips out through injector port!

proth1975 — Sat, 21 Aug 2010 00:33:35 GMT

OK... I just got this truck a couple of days ago, and already I'm thinking about killing it.

The truck had *something* happen, where all the plugs ended up swelling up. I've stuggled with just this one plug, and need assistance. I pulled the injector, and lassoed the tip of the plug. I pulled the threads off, and tried knocking it into the precomp port to pull it out. Nada. Seems like the plug is a little too long to slip back out the GP opening.

I'm afraid of having to pull the heads (My First Diesel), but I can't see any way to take care of it. I've attached a pic with the hope someone has a better idea.

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

-P

CHMSL wiring in a truck cap/canopy/topper?

great white — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:55:45 GMT

Not sure where to post this, so this will have to do.

(we really should have a separate forum for the GMT400, etc)

I'm looking to wire up a CHMSL in my truck bed cap/topper/canopy/whatever you choose to call it.

Problem is, I can't see an easy way to wire it in without it flashing with the turn signals.

My options seem to be:

1. add a logic box, wire in with the brake/turn signals

2. run a dedicated wire back from the brake switch to the CHSML

Either way, not overly cheap or easy....

Are there any other options?

The ford boys have it easy, ford included a separate brake wire for just this type of thing.

I'm hoping Gm did the same, but after looking at some diagrams, I doubt it....

WHAT IS AN ATT!?!?!?!?

katielynn12291 — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:12:26 GMT

So ive been reading about all yall gettin ATTs and I want to know what they are exactly, and where to find one. ANY HELP?:)

98 Burb Hrs vs Miles and what's it worth ??

Acesneights1 — Fri, 20 Aug 2010 13:43:36 GMT

I know where a Burb is going up for sale soon. It's a 98 with 94k miles but has 11,000+ hrs on it. Ex FD truck. Plain jane. Interior is ratty, has holes in the front fenders from lights. What do you guys think it is worth ? What would 11k hrs workout to in additional miles fron the Odometer and lastly is a 98 with 94k on the Odo still eligible for the GM IP warranty ? I have a nice dead Stanadyne PMD I can stick on it and get a new IP if I buy it. Truck has no rust(A miracle in NE). I happen to have a set of Leather Burb seats...

Anyone use WMI in cold climates?

great white — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 23:00:27 GMT

Well, intercooling seems to be troublesome the way I want to do it. I'm really not happy with the "hanging" idea and TMIC is not working out the way I wanted it to.

I originally discounted water injection due to the hassle involved with freezing in winter or cold "snaps" but am willing to look at it again.

Seeing how I can hit 1000 (and flirt with 1100) unloaded with (very) heavy throttle uphill, I wouldn't mind something to kick down the egt's a bit. I don't tow (maybe a total of 1% of the time, tops) but can get pretty heavy footed into the hills. For reference, a "hill" around here can be anywhere up to 5-6 thousand feet. The reported increase in MPG with WMI is also an attractive motivator also.....

Does anyone living in a cold location (or cold winters) here use WMI? Alternatively, does anyone use WMI where you can climb enough to go from warm temps to freezing (not unusual to go from +5 to -10 in under 20 mins during winter here when climbing up to the ski hills)?

If so, what is your routine when it gets cold?

As in:

What do you do to drain it? When do you drain it? Do you blow it out with compressed air? Do you drain it at all? Does it "blow back" boost pressure when empty? etc.....

I like the idea of WMI being progressive with one of the available kits on the market and the relatively small footprint on vehicle space compared to intercooling. I'm just not so sure about the cold issues.

Also, what and when do you trigger it? IE: with boost? With EGT? what temp? what boost level? progressive? all in? etc.......

Any input?

Few questions that I cant seam to find with search!!

gmccrewcabdually — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 08:30:07 GMT

Few questions that I cant seam to find with search!! :mad2:

1) 180* thermostat should I get one?? Where can I find one? What brand??

2) where should I install my EGT probe??

3) where should I tap in to fuel line for fuel PSI??

4) what ells should do seeing as the motor is out?? But about to go back in!

5) where can i get injectors rebuilt/tested

thanks everyone

Pete

vac pump delete??

gmccrewcabdually — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 04:22:18 GMT

if i ditch the vac pump what els do i need to do other than the belt??

Pete

opps!! mod pleass move! SORRY!! i shoulp pay Attention to where i am putting things!!

***JiF edit. No problem, Pete.. moved.

Thanks for moving!!!!!!!!

Very high egts towing..

Acesneights1 — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 01:29:35 GMT

Last weekends trip with new Heath Tune and TM is now making my egts very very high. It I down shift to 3rd climbing a grade the boost hits about 15 and the egts run right up to 1300+. WTF ?? I knew I should have just fixed the vac pump. This is exactly what my Tahoe did after installing a TM.
FYI:
IP replaced last year(PO), Reman injs(accurate Diesel), remote PMD, New fuel lines. Hollowed out kitty with 4inch ex cut into it. Flowmaster downpipe abd crossover and NO EXH LEAKS(Pulled the friggin head to fix it.)
TDCO -1.50
The exact same thing happened to my Tahoe. It towed fine with no real temp problems until I put that damn TM on. I seriously think it's causing too much backpressure. what else could it be ?
I have an Autometer Pro series Pyro drilled right into the ex manifold under the turbo so the numbers are right.

Fishing trip not without issues...

Crankme69 — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 00:59:33 GMT

Ran fine 650 miles stopped on the way & met Barry BK95td...I owed him a dinner for a favor he did for me, he's a great guy! ;) MPG = 20.7 running cruise at 75mph gotta love that :thumbsup:

On the 3rd day here at the cabin & no wait to start light & no boost :mad2:. All of you turbo master guys can say I told you so :o. The SOB is blowing the IGN A 20 amp fuse. Replaced it with a 30 amp, blows that also. I unplugged both EGR solenoids they were not being used anyway, the EGR is long gone.

Ran the truck for a day with the EGR SOLs unplugged & it blew the fuse again :mad2:

Unplugged the turbo boost solenoid & for now hooked up a screen door spring to keep some boost until I can confirm the boost SOL is the issue.

The screen door spring was a quick fix about 10lbs boost at WOT & about 4 at cruise that was a break I needed about all of 3 min to install :eek:

I freakin hate electrical problems, all grounds are clean, did them trouble shooting this issue when the same fuse was blowing when the EGR SOL chit the bed about 6 months ago right before I deleted it.

Any advice would be appreciated...I have 650 mile trip home coming this Saturday...

TIA~!

Wich gaskets and seals?????????

gnel — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 23:08:20 GMT

The search function really works. Never mind.

Which engine oil cooler lines are supply and return?

jrsavoie — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 16:19:20 GMT

Which engine oil cooler lines are supply and return?

I want to tie my FS2500 into the return line. I'll install a T with the proper fitting in the line.

I'm mounting the filter vertically in between the drivers side battery and the fan. Just to the right of the upper radiator hose and tapping into the fill neck for return.

Maybe Greg could make this T an option in his kit.

Three Amigos, A truck, 11 States and 6 Days

Paveltolz — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 06:13:52 GMT

Sunshine arrived in Seattle from his home in Norway last week where 635 collected him up and they drove down the coast to San Francisco and then up I-80 over Donner Pass to Reno. They linked up with a friend of Turbine Doc there for some 6.5 talk, dinner, more 6.5 talk and then continued on towards Bonneville for a few days at the Salt Flats with Bill Heath and company.
Monday night they linked up at my place, ate a steak dinner, talked trucks and everything else we could fit in to the limited time there at the house.
After a good sleep the three of us headed out for a 6 day/11 state sojourn.
Goal: Grand Canyon, Meteor Crater, Aztec Ruins, Taos, Chimney Rock, Sturgis, Devil�s Tower, Custer�s Memorial, Yellow Stone, Grand Tetons, Jackson Hole, Walking J, Heath�s and back to Seattle by the 24th to drop an exhausted and corrupted �Sunshine� at SEATAC in time to catch his plane back to Oslo.
Today we made from Salt Lake to Winslow Arizona with an altitude high of 9995� between Cedar City and the East entrance to Zion�s National Park. With a short stop to admire the incongruity of Pink Coral Sand Dunes at 6000� we continued on the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. Tomorrow we�ll get the �standing on the corner in Winslow AZ� photos and make our way east and north through New Mexico and into Colorado.
Pictures: High altitude and propane don�t guarantee a clean burn. 635 sends an environmentally unfriendly �How ya doin'� with smoke signals from his dual exhaust.
Dinner in Valle AZ across from �Flintstone Land�

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engh motors scanner program....is he a member here?

j k auto — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 04:36:35 GMT

Long time no talk. I am trying to help out a guy that has 3 6.5's. He is looking at getting this program. I told him I now the perfect group of guys that can help with a great program that will help him. I Know you guys will take good care of him on here and I hope everyone is doing great here.......

Any how waving a hand and saying hi and also getting you anouther member....woho:D:thumbsup:

How to remove the front drive shaft from a NP 246 transfer case.

jrsavoie — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:39:17 GMT

Do you cut the clamps on the rubber boot and slide it apart?

Does anynody have any pics &/or instructions for removing the front drive shaft from the NP 246?

oil filter adapter will not come lose - 98 Suburban

jrsavoie — Wed, 18 Aug 2010 00:36:21 GMT

The oil filter adapter on the 98 Suburban will not come lose. Somebody must have tightened the shit out of it.
I had my best 1/2" impact on it and it never budged.

I'm kind of scared to get to radical with it. All Ireally need to do is break it off.

Is there a work around to install Lubrication Specialty's Oil cooler kit without removing the adapter?

Possibly a grease zirc like fitting that comes straight out, with a female trhreaded 90?

Dare I try to heat the bolt and let it cool? If it worked fine. If not my O rings would be baked.

Dare I try the 3/4" impact?

This thing is way over 17 lbs torque,

Any ideas?

best place to buy radiator

chevyCowboy — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 22:56:11 GMT

where is the best place to buy a radiator, i found what i need at USA radiator any one ever buy from them?

96 motor to 94 body

tommystunes — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:59:53 GMT

I bent the frame on my 96 6.5.I listed it for sale on the other site, and no interest was shown.
I have found a 94 6.5 with a bad motor,what would the swap from a 96 to 94 entail?

What to do about the IP/ECM difference??

blind

vail426 — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:24:21 GMT

Some one had posted here a short while ago about duramax fan options, the fan clutches, 6 bolt fan, 4 bolt fan and the ways you could wiggle them together. For the life of me, I can't find it. Maybe it was at the other place? Anybody remember? Thanks...

HVAC fan weak?

great white — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 16:06:17 GMT

My 98 has had (what I would call) very poor HVAC fan performance since I purchased it.

My 89 would damn near blow you toupee off, but my 98 has barely more than a popcorn fart at full blast.

first, is this normal for the newer style dash? The blower just can't seen to provide much air. I can hear the fan working it's butt off down under the dash though.

I beleive (if the manual schematic is right) all the air has to pass through the AC evaporator before it enter the rest of the plenum, be it AC or Heat selected.

If so, is it possible that my evap has been mostly clogged by debris?

I do know that I'm constantly pulling leaves and tree droppings out of cracks and crevices on this truck.

Anyone ever experience that problem?

maybe I'll see about dropping the dash today and have a look.

I just can't believe the fan output is this weak....

pitman/steering box nut size 1 5/16", 33mm or 1 1/4"

jrsavoie — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 11:56:35 GMT

pitman/steering box nut size 1 5/16", 33mm or 1 1/4"

3 pitman arms, 3 vehicles, 3 sizes

6.5s in Washington??

gmccrewcabdually — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:10:22 GMT

so I was calling around today looking for some new Bosch Injectors! called lots of local places and was about to give up and order some via the internet. but then the last place I call suggests I call Heath (I am my head i am thinkin ya that was one of the places I was thinking I would call) then he informs me that are just over the hill in Ellensburg WA!

:pat: crap I just spent hours on the phone for nothing!! GRR then my frustration turned to Excitement that a company that knows so much about the 6.5 td is that close! I promptly called heath!! I hade a vary nice conversation with Todd (thanks Todd!!)

So I got to thinking who ells is in Washington?? Members and companies?

LP inlet and outlet size ?

ChevyTD — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 08:32:54 GMT

Does anybody know what is the thread side as i want to convert it to 3/8 pushlock. Thank.

Removing the dash, trying to get to the defrost door in my '95 Sierra k2500

konstan — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 03:57:02 GMT

The final goal is getting the defrost door fixed. The a/c blows out of the defrost vents which is a waste and also covers the windshield with condensation in the mornings, can't have that!

So I decided to take the dash out and then see if I can fix the defrost door without taking the hvac distribution box out.

So far, I did the following:

- took out the center console and the driver seat. I love having enough room to work.
- removed the knee panel under the steering
- removed the metal plates under the steering column
- removed the 4 nuts holding the steering column in place

Now I am supposed to be able to "drop it to the floor" but there is a large tube across the whole dash... so, how does the steering column drop to the floor??

- removed the dash rattle stop screws (top of dash, where the defrost vent is)
- removed the two dash pivot bolts on the far ends of the dash

What else am I missing before I can remove the dash, or at least pivot it? Ideally, I would like to remove it all the way, because its not like there is going to be room to spare working with the hvac box...

filter manager

6fiveturbo — Tue, 17 Aug 2010 03:06:07 GMT

the o-rings on the top , the one for the fuel heater, and the one for the WIF sensor, can they be found at almost any parts store (ex. carquest) or are they some type of special deal?

6.5 over boosting?

craig12 — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 21:54:33 GMT

i bought 99 6.5 tb a week back, looks to be modded in a few areas from previous owners, and it seems to be hitting 15 psi boost when im towing about 6000 lbs car trailer on climbs, im thinking this cant be stock. Is there any way to adjust the wastegate? temp hit almost 230F going up one of the longer steeper climbs, is this related to the over boost im getting? the exhaust gas tempurature hits 8-900 F max on those steep climbs, which i assume isnt bad..?

AC system plug - what's it for???

CptTrog — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 21:43:20 GMT

Got a plug on the passenger side fender located next to the AC system, behind air filter box. When bumped, the A/C goes hot. Nothing plugged into it.
Any ideas??
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36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long)

colbythekid — Mon, 16 Aug 2010 17:39:07 GMT

First just wanted to say thanks for all the help you guys have provided.
Now onto the problem at hand. In June the wife and I went on a road trip to Sequoia National Park. You might remember this post: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...ssion-Problems

Before the trip there was this post: http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...des-on-95-Burb

I went to the local Wally World and picked up a quart of cheep SVE-30. I also picked up a bottle Diesel Kleen Cetane Boost. I put the SVE-30 in the tank first and drove to the local mountains (~100 miles) to pick up some camping supplies and from there headed to Sequoia. The way up the mountain the service engine soon (SES) light came on again. I put the Diesel Kleen in and continued the trip to Sequoia (~200 miles) no more service engine soon light. I filled the burb up before limping it to the dealer in Bakersfield (~50 miles).

After the transmission was fixed we drove it home (~150 miles) and still no SES light. Filled up a few times (tank was still about 3/4 full).

On July 20 I filled the truck and the wife followed me up in the burb. The SES light came on and off almost nonstop according to the wifey. I hooked up the computer and had a 36 - Injection pulse width error (response time long) code. Drove the burb to see what it was doing.

When I would put the cruise control on between 55 and 65 the service engine soon light would turn on about a minute after and cruise control would turn off. When I would drive without turning on the cruise control the SES light would turn on but it took longer for it to turn on. The light will stay on for a few minutes and will eventually turn off. However when the SES light would come on and I would let the rpms drop to ~700 the light turns off.

When starting the trunk cold it blows white smoke and runs rough for about 10 seconds. With the diesel kleen the truck never has any issues while starting.

It has now been 800 miles now since the last time the SES light has come back on that is one full tank of gas (39 gal) and about 200 miles on the next tank and still no SES light.

I do not mind adding diesel kleen to my tank from now on, it is only $5 at Wally World and that treats 40 gal.

Am I covering up a future problem?

Thanks in advanced.

Colby

Bully Dog "Watchdog"...

poptopjr — Sun, 15 Aug 2010 02:15:58 GMT

I've been looking for some guages and I came across the Watchdog from Bully Dog. Is anyone using it? Opinions?

Would it be useful on our trucks? It states all OBD II trucks, but what does the computer in our truck monitor? Obviously this thing isn't going to make magic happen, but if our computer is already looking at boost, IAT, EGT, etc... Other than cost why not plug one of these things in?

What does the computer on my 97 K1500 look at or where could I get that information?

Thanks,

Keith

Which Brand HO Pump?

handcannon — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 22:41:49 GMT

Due to some overheating when towing I'm checking out different brands of HO water pumps. This is for the 94 in my sig line. The radiator is a used one I found to replace the damaged stock rad that was on the truck when I got it. No overheating problems except when towing my TT up hills.

The rad is all brass, non aluminum core. I took the rad down to the local rad shop and had them go through it so it's clean inside and out. The AC condensor is new so it's clean. The oil and tranny coolers are clean. The thermo crossover was broken when I got the truck so I found a used dual thermo crossover. I have already changed out the fan and clutch to a DMax fan and 97 severe duty fan clutch. The only thing not changed is the water pump, it's still a stock 94 pump.

Rockauto shows a long list of pumps with widely varying prices. I've read that the 99 pumps were better output than the earlier ones so that is the year I will list. Many of these pumps were the same part number for 1997 through 1999. I'm not even considering reman pumps. My question is what brand have you used and how well has it held up? I will list the ones I'm considering.

Bosch #99153 $59.79

Airtex #AW5074 $63.99 (never heard of this brand before)

Gates #44042 $66.79

Cardone Select #5511130 $66.79

AC Delco #252717 $83.89

Rock Products #WP3195A $94.79

There were other new ones listed that were even cheaper but I'm leary of them. Maybe it's the guality of the bearings or other parts used?

Any info/firsthand experience you can give me will be appreciated.

Don

Power Distribution diagram?

6.5TD Burb — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 20:54:28 GMT

Would someone happen to have a diagram of the power block on the driver side kick panel? I'm blowing fuses under "CTSY" and I need to know why. It's a 20 amp fuse; keeps arching when I try to put a new fuse in it. Something's killing my batteries, after all this time they held a charge just fine after moving it in the yard the other day my batteries are now dead. There are no other blown fuses but the left side of the Fuel Solenoid fuse is getting hot; hot enough to start to distort the plastic on the fuse.

no 4WD

matuva — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 12:05:07 GMT

Hello,

does any of you have the wiring diagram of 4WD actuation on a 1997 K1500 ?

I'm trying to solve a no 4WD actuation on such a truck.

symptoms when trying to engage are :
- nothing happens, except a click inside the dash, under instrument panel. The clicks come from what I would call a relay-BCM, where wires from switches connect, and from which the harness to actuators is connected
- lights in 4WD switch (Hi and Lo positions) just blink a very few when trying to actuate then go off, lights in 2WD switch always stays on
- while actuating switches, no power (2 volts only) at the actuators, the one on the T-case, and the one in the front end;
- swap the switches with new ones, no change,
- swap this kind of relay-bcm (#1) under the dash with a known good (#2), no change. Note the relay-bcm#1 doesn't work on the truck #2, relay #2 works fine on truck #2, but not on #1 either
- new actuator in the front end, no change
- all fuses OK

I must say I'm a bit lost, so I believe a wiring diagram should help. Any thought BTW ?

Its a Miracle !

jmiller — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 05:01:44 GMT

Suspected the PMD was going down hill. Symptoms started last fall, with a little fishbiting with high idle. It died once or twice in the driveway.

Then the Christmas present of a busted crank sidelined the PMD issue.
While replacing the engine, the PMD and heat sink were moved to the bumper, finally.
Tried tightening the nuts in the PMD. After replacing the engine ($$$$), I need to see if it would last a little longer.
First week after driving the truck, the Cruise control died!!!! :(

Fast forward to this week.
Was backing up the driveway the other night, it died.
Next morning, left for work. It died after pulling out of the drive.
Died again at a traffic light.
Serious fishbite, on the highway.
All in 3 miles of the house. That was enough I had to turn around, just hoping to save the tow bill.

Time to head to the Diesel shop for a PMD.

Installed the Dtech PMD.

On the way to work, tried the cruise control, Miracle it works!!! :hihi:

Fortunately, thanks to everyone here at TTS, I knew what, where, when and how! ! ! :hello:

THANK YOU

AC High Side Valve Removal?

Big T — Sat, 14 Aug 2010 00:49:38 GMT

How do you remove this:

When I removed the plastic cap, it dumps the refrigerant. I'm told it's just a dust cap and the valve is not supposed to leak like that. Explains all my problems with the AC system. I put a wrench to it, but can't break it free. The base looks like it's casted in place. Does it split at the nut?

Truck turned 200,000KM and gave me a present

chris4521 — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 23:54:12 GMT

Soooo
I rolled over 200,000KM today (ive had her since 150) and the truck gave me a sweet little surprise... I was watching the odometer and smiling and the smile abruptly left my face when i smelled diesel.. Pulled into the lumber yard lot to pick up some lumber, popped the hood and noticed fuel GUSHING from the top of the Fuel filter ( where the ring seals ) I use the Metal fuel filter and I have the plastic ring... I tried a new one and really tightened it , but it still seems to seep a bit of fuel!!! Anyone else had this problem??? A friend of mine at the stealers mentioned that i might be able to fix it with a big hose clamp ( tried with no luck ) They didnt have a replacement retainer ring.. so i had to make do with what I've got. Anyone else had this problem?? How did you solve it? Hoping for another 50,000 trouble free kilometers (well sorta)

true cold air intake???

gmccrewcabdually — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 07:57:11 GMT

dos any one make one????

is the only option stock or (see pic)

would any one be interested in a true cold air intake if there is not allready one on the market??

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Had a little fun, now got a question~Language~

saturntech95 — Fri, 13 Aug 2010 02:39:46 GMT

Well we were at my shop and decided to slap a couple of old tires and wheels on the back of my truck and finish them off. They were 33x9's.

That was the first one, did a couple more but didnt vidieo them, now here comes the question, in the last one I did I really held it for a long time and when I was done EGT was arround 900 so I was thinking not bad, trans arround 200 so again not bad, then I looked at the coolant temp.... 240ish :eek: so I quickly pulled it up to the hose and sprayed the radiator down a bit and it cooled right down to the 195 area. I let it idle there for a bit then shut her down. After that checked my coolant and I didnt seem to loose any and didnt see any leaking.
Soooooo should I be concerned at all??

Duramax fan and clutch mount question

oldtoyboyd — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 16:09:48 GMT

The 4 bolt fan clutch I have has a fan mounting of 3.25". The duramax fan I picked up is 3.75". Did every one slot the fan blade holes to mount the fan or is there a different fan clutch that will work. This is going on a 1995 Suburban with a 4 bolt fan clutch mount.
Thanks for the help.

what do you think of these filters?

ak diesel driver — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 15:40:33 GMT

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AC-De...ts_Accessories

glowpugs

6fiveturbo — Thu, 12 Aug 2010 00:56:14 GMT

how hot do these get? and what temperture does it normally charge the air to?

Oh $h!t....I put GAS in my fuel tank!

Brooklyn Tow — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 23:35:46 GMT

Hey people.....Long time no post.
Well like the title says....Last night I pull in to the gas station, pull up to the pump and unknowingly put the "gas nozzle" in the fuel tank and "Squeeze".....So I'm standing there and I smell gas and quickly say to myself, "NO WAY".....So I release the handle look at the pump and sure enough i'm pumping High Test (Thats premium, for you young guys).

So now i'm in panic mode....turns out I pumped 1.68 gallons of "gas" into a tank that had about a 1/4 of a tank of diesel......So I quickly scroll thru my phone to get the "Best advice" for the dilema I now found myself in....Guess who I called..."Turbine Doc" (Now who better to call with a question like that at 10:00pm?)....

So the directions I got were to take the the line off from the LP that feeds the IP...Plug the the "G" pin into a power source and let the LP pump the gas out of the tank without loosing your "Fuel thats already in the line, fuel manager, and IP.

So after the the tank was as empty as the LP would get it, I put in another 2 gallons of Diesel, pump that out with the LP also, button everything up and smack myself in the back of the coconut, for pulling such a bone head move.

Anyway just wanted to give you guys the skinny on what I did and how Tim/Turbine Doc came to the rescue from 250 miles away......Hope this helps someone who is ever in a similar situation.........Thanks Tim!

feed the beast

6fiveturbo — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:23:03 GMT

i done some searching, and the filter manager part i got. but what i dont get is..what all do you have to do to the fitting on the top of th IP?

remote mount fsd

chessie 6.5 — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 21:19:53 GMT

I purchased an SS Diesel FSD heat sink before finding this site. From the problems posted, I'm going to move it to behind the coolant bottle on a mounting bracket and after some thought, I'm going to install a small 12 volt muffin fan on top of heat sink. These fans are cheap and of right size for my needs. I might even wire in a thermostat to turn it off in cooler weather. It appears that these eventually fail no matter what brand or location, just like the damn glow plug controller on the older Olds diesels. Just do a search for --Muffin fans....the site is- cheap fans.

1994 ebay diesel suppliment

great white — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:55:04 GMT

Anyone looking for one?

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1994-GMC-Chevrole...item58891f8951

Just ran across it in a random search.

Bring it on! Att vs. Hx35

gmccrewcabdually — Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:34:59 GMT

You guys and your ATT! all of you keep talkin hella shit about everything els and claming that the ATT was made by GOD!!!

well lets see some dino numbers and or some flow charts on the ATT!!!

bring it on!!

i mean i ran a hx 35 on my 2.2l honda! why wouldnt it work on my 6.5 gm!

PETE